Clearing turfgrass is the necessary first step in establishing any new garden bed, as the dense root structure of lawn grasses will aggressively compete with new plantings for both water and soil nutrients. The method you choose depends heavily on your schedule and the amount of physical labor you are willing to invest. Some techniques offer immediate results, while others use passive biological processes that build healthier soil over time.
Immediate Physical Removal
For gardeners who need to plant immediately, physically removing the entire sod layer is the fastest option, providing a clean slate by taking the grass and its extensive root system completely out of the area. The effort required can be intense, but it bypasses the waiting period associated with passive methods.
Manual removal involves using a flat-bladed shovel or a specialized sod cutter knife to slice the turf into manageable strips, typically about 12 to 18 inches wide. It is helpful to moisten the area a day or two beforehand, as slightly damp soil cuts cleanly and keeps the sod intact. As you lift each strip, shake off excess soil back onto the garden area to preserve the existing topsoil. The removed sod can be piled into a compost heap or even flipped upside down and stacked in a corner to decompose naturally.
For larger areas, renting a motorized sod cutter significantly reduces the labor and time involved. These machines slice horizontally beneath the turf, cutting uniform strips that can be rolled up like carpet. The machine’s blade depth is usually set between 1.5 and 3 inches to ensure the entire root crown is removed without digging too deeply into the subsoil. This process requires careful operation to avoid hitting hidden obstacles like sprinkler heads or utility lines. Once the turf is cut, it must be promptly hauled away or repurposed.
Smothering and Non-Chemical Methods
Passive techniques are ideal for gardeners who can plan ahead, as they require less initial physical labor and improve the soil biology. These methods focus on blocking light and accelerating decomposition. Smothering methods are a great way to avoid disturbing the existing soil biome.
Sheet mulching, sometimes called lasagna gardening, is a popular no-till method that simultaneously kills the grass and builds a rich layer of organic matter. The process begins with a light-blocking layer, typically thick, overlapped sheets of corrugated cardboard or 6 to 10 layers of newspaper. This barrier is wetted thoroughly and then covered with alternating layers of nitrogen-rich material, such as compost or aged manure, and carbon-rich material, like straw or wood chips. The layers slowly decompose into fertile soil. This transformation typically takes three to six months before the bed is ready for deep-rooted plants, though shallow-rooted seedlings can sometimes be planted directly into the top layer of mulch sooner.
Solarization is a faster technique best performed during the hottest months of the year. This method uses clear plastic sheeting, typically 2 to 6 mil thick, to create a greenhouse effect over the soil. The area must be watered well before application to ensure the soil is moist, and the edges of the plastic are secured by burying them in a small trench to trap the heat and moisture inside. This process can raise the temperature of the top 12 inches of soil high enough to kill grass, weed seeds, and some soilborne pathogens. Solarization generally requires four to eight weeks of consistent heat and sunlight to be fully effective.
Preparing the Soil for Planting
After the grass has been successfully removed or decomposed, the final step involves preparing the soil to support new plant life. Even after removal, the area should be monitored for any aggressive perennial weeds, like Bermuda grass. Any persistent growth should be manually dug out to ensure it does not re-establish itself in the new garden.
Before planting, perform a simple soil assessment to check the pH and nutrient levels, which can guide the necessary amendments. Gardeners must then decide whether to till the soil or adopt a no-till approach. Tilling can help break up compaction and quickly incorporate bulk amendments. However, tilling also fractures the soil’s beneficial structure, releases carbon into the atmosphere, and often brings dormant weed seeds to the surface where they can germinate.
A no-till approach maintains the soil’s natural layers and microbial communities, promoting better water retention and reducing erosion. Regardless of the method chosen, organic amendments should be incorporated just before planting. Adding a generous layer of high-quality compost or aged manure significantly boosts the soil’s organic matter content, supplying essential nutrients and improving drainage and texture.