Pruners are handheld cutting tools used by gardeners to trim plants. Maintaining them is a simple task that greatly affects both the health of your garden and the longevity of the tool. Regular cleaning keeps the blades operating smoothly and prevents the transmission of plant pathogens like bacteria, fungi, and viruses. Routine maintenance ensures cleaner cuts that heal faster, reducing the risk of infection and preserving the overall vigor of your landscape.
Routine Cleaning and Disinfection
After each use, or when moving between plants, follow a quick cleaning procedure to remove debris and sterilize the blades. Begin by removing any visible soil, sap, or plant matter from the blades and moving parts using a small brush or a rag dipped in warm, soapy water. This initial step is important because organic debris can shield pathogens from the disinfectant, making the sanitization process ineffective.
Once physical debris is gone, the pruners need disinfection to neutralize remaining plant disease agents. Isopropyl alcohol (70% or higher concentration) is highly effective; the tool can be wiped down or dipped directly without rinsing, as alcohol evaporates rapidly. A diluted bleach solution (one part bleach to nine parts water) is also effective, but because bleach is corrosive, the blades must be rinsed thoroughly with water after soaking to prevent damage. Commercial plant disinfectants are also available. Regardless of the agent chosen, ensure the blades are completely dry afterward to prevent rust.
Addressing Heavy Build-up and Rust
When pruners have been neglected, they can develop thick, dried resin or sap build-up that simple soap and water cannot remove, as well as rust. To dissolve stubborn, sticky residue, specialized solvents can be applied. Penetrating oils like WD-40 or mineral spirits can be sprayed onto the blades and pivot point to help break down the sap, allowing it to be wiped away after soaking for 10 to 20 minutes.
For surface rust, a more abrasive approach is necessary to remove the oxidized metal without damaging the underlying steel. Light rust can often be scrubbed away using fine-grade steel wool (grade 0000) or fine-grit sandpaper. For heavier rust, the metal components may benefit from a soak in a mild acid solution, like white vinegar, for several hours.
The acetic acid in the vinegar chemically reacts with the rust, making it easier to scrub off afterward. Following any abrasive cleaning or acidic soak, neutralize the acid with a quick rinse of soapy water and then dry the tool completely. Wear protective gloves and eyewear when using abrasive materials and solvents.
Sharpening and Long-Term Storage
Restoring a sharp edge is necessary after intensive cleaning or extended use to ensure clean cuts that minimize stress and injury to the plants. Sharpen the cutting blade only on its beveled edge; the flat back side remains untouched to maintain proper cutting alignment. Draw a whetstone or a small metal file across the beveled edge, following the original angle (typically between 15 and 25 degrees), until a burr forms on the flat side.
After sharpening, carefully remove the burr on the flat side of the blade by making one or two light passes with the stone or file. Once the blades are clean and sharp, apply a thin layer of lubricating oil, such as 3-in-1 oil or light machine oil, to the blades and the pivot joint.
This film of oil reduces friction during use and acts as a moisture barrier, defending against rust during storage. Pruners should be stored in a cool, dry place, away from damp floors or concrete, to protect the metal from corrosion.