Groundhogs, also known as woodchucks, quickly become a problem for property owners due to their extensive burrowing habits. These animals create complex tunnel systems that compromise the structural integrity of foundations, decks, sheds, and walkways by undermining the soil. The resulting soil erosion and voids can lead to sinking concrete, cracked foundations, and uneven ground, posing a tripping hazard. A single groundhog can excavate a burrow up to 45 feet long and five feet deep, which also disrupts drainage and redirects water toward basements, causing moisture issues and mold. Solutions that encourage the animal to leave without using a cage trap focus on exclusion, passive deterrents, and active eviction techniques.
Physical Barriers to Prevent Entry
The most effective, long-term non-trap solution involves installing physical exclusion barriers to prevent a groundhog from accessing areas like gardens or beneath structures. Groundhogs are persistent diggers, so a successful barrier must extend both above and below the ground surface. Heavy-gauge wire mesh or hardware cloth is the material of choice, as it resists chewing and provides strength.
To counter the animal’s instinct to dig under a fence, incorporate an L-footing—a horizontal apron of mesh buried beneath the surface. This involves burying the mesh 12 to 18 inches deep and bending the bottom six to twelve inches outward, away from the protected area, at a 90-degree angle. When the groundhog attempts to dig down, it encounters this unexpected “false floor” of wire and typically moves on.
The above-ground portion of the fence should stand at least 24 to 30 inches tall to prevent climbing. Where digging is impossible, such as around concrete or large tree roots, the L-footing can be laid directly on the surface and covered with soil or mulch. This still acts as a physical deterrent when the groundhog attempts to dig at the structure’s edge.
Deterrents That Encourage Relocation
Non-physical deterrents work by making the area surrounding the burrow system undesirable, prompting voluntary relocation. These methods appeal to the animal’s strong sense of smell or its skittish nature. Scent-based repellents are often placed near the burrow entrance to create an immediate, unpleasant environment.
- Ammonia-soaked rags can be placed inside or near the burrow opening to bother the groundhog with the strong, irritating odor.
- Predator urine from animals like coyotes or foxes triggers the groundhog’s survival instinct, suggesting a nearby threat.
- Cayenne pepper or mixtures containing garlic can be sprinkled around garden plants to deter feeding.
Habitat modification is another form of passive deterrence that increases the groundhog’s sense of vulnerability. Groundhogs prefer areas with dense cover and tall vegetation near their burrows, as this provides a quick escape route. By consistently keeping the grass mowed short and clearing brush piles, you remove the protective cover. The effectiveness of these deterrents is often temporary, as scents fade quickly and the animal may learn to tolerate the mild discomfort.
Active Methods for Burrow Eviction
Active eviction methods force the groundhog out of its established burrow system. This is best attempted outside of the breeding season (late winter to early summer) to avoid orphaning young. Flooding the burrow is a common, non-trap technique, but it requires a very large volume of water due to the extensive length and depth of the tunnel system. The water must fill all side tunnels and chambers to fully displace the animal.
Before attempting to flood a burrow, recognize the potential for structural damage, especially if the burrow is near a foundation or under a patio. The influx of water can accelerate soil erosion, leading to a sudden collapse or severe basement flooding. Using noise or vibration devices is another technique, though their effectiveness is limited, as groundhogs often become habituated to the disturbance.
Extreme caution and an understanding of local laws are necessary regarding chemical deterrents or burrow gassing. Methods using carbon monoxide (CO) or sulfur-based smoke cartridges are lethal and must adhere strictly to product labels and local regulations. Regulations often restrict their use near buildings due to the risk of gas entering the structure. Any lethal method risks orphaning young and can lead to odor problems if the animal dies inside the burrow system.
Legal Requirements and Professional Assistance
Before undertaking groundhog removal, confirm the species’ legal status in your location, as regulations vary across states and municipalities. In many jurisdictions, groundhogs are classified as a game or protected species, meaning their removal or transport is strictly regulated. This framework often dictates that lethal removal or relocation requires a specific permit, even for the property owner.
Relocating a groundhog, even a short distance away, is often illegal without a license due to the potential for spreading disease or shifting the problem to another property. If DIY methods fail, the most reliable and legally compliant option is to contact a licensed Wildlife Control Operator (WCO). These professionals possess the necessary permits and expertise to perform regulated removal, ensuring compliance with state and local wildlife laws regarding the animal’s handling.