Potted lilies, typically hybrid Oriental or Asiatic varieties, are often purchased indoors as temporary displays, having been specially forced to bloom outside their natural cycle. These vibrant plants grow from true bulbs, which are underground energy storage units that can be saved and encouraged to flower again. Understanding the specific care requirements for these forced bulbs is important, as their post-bloom needs differ significantly from standard houseplants. The goal of this specialized maintenance is to replenish the bulb’s reserves, initiating the cycle for future growth.
Immediate Care for Active Blooms
The objective during the active flowering period is to maximize the longevity of the blooms and minimize stress on the plant. Providing the correct light exposure is important, favoring bright conditions without the intensity of direct sunlight. Placing the pot near an east or west-facing window, or a few feet away from a south-facing one, prevents the delicate petals from scorching, which prematurely ends the display.
Managing soil moisture carefully directly impacts the health of the bulb, which is susceptible to rot. The potting medium should remain consistently moist but never saturated or waterlogged. Use the “finger test,” watering only when the top inch of soil feels dry, while ensuring proper drainage from the pot’s base.
Maintaining a cooler environment significantly extends the plant’s flowering time. Lilies perform best when daytime temperatures range between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures above this range cause the flowers to wilt and fade more quickly, shortening the duration of the bloom.
The potted lily should be situated away from common heat sources, such as furnace vents, radiators, or hot air drafts from electronics. Conversely, exposure to cold blasts from open doors or air conditioning units can shock the plant, causing flowers to drop prematurely. Stable, cool air circulation helps create optimal conditions for the plant to hold onto its blooms.
Managing Spent Blooms and Foliage
Once the display begins to fade, the immediate task is removing the spent flower heads, a process known as deadheading. This action conserves the plant’s energy by preventing the formation of seed pods, which draws substantial resources away from the bulb. The individual flower should be cleanly snipped off just below the bloom, leaving the main flower stem intact.
Following flower removal, the green foliage and stalk must remain undisturbed. The leaves are the plant’s energy factories, performing photosynthesis to convert light into carbohydrates necessary for the bulb’s survival and future flowering. Cutting the green leaves prematurely starves the bulb, drastically reducing the likelihood of a successful rebloom.
During this post-flowering period, while the leaves are still green, apply a light application of a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. This feeding supports the foliage’s work of replenishing the bulb’s stored food supply. The plant should continue to receive the same consistent watering it received during the bloom period to maintain leaf function.
The foliage must be allowed to yellow and wither naturally, which typically happens over several weeks or months as the plant enters dormancy. This natural decline signals that the maximum amount of energy has been successfully transferred from the leaves back into the bulb. Only after the stem has completely browned and dried should it be cut back to the soil level.
Post-Bloom Transition and Reblooming
Saving a potted lily bulb requires a managed transition from its indoor environment to a period of cold dormancy, a process called vernalization. If the danger of frost has passed, the pot can be moved outdoors to a sheltered location where the foliage can mature under natural light. Full sun is beneficial during this outdoor phase, though partial shade is acceptable, provided the plant receives several hours of bright light each day.
Continued watering and occasional feeding support the foliage’s final push to stockpile nutrients until the leaves naturally begin to senesce. When the stalks and leaves have completely yellowed and died back, the bulb has officially entered its resting state. At this point, the dead material should be clipped off near the soil line, and watering should be almost entirely suspended.
The dormant lily bulb requires a specific period of cold temperatures, typically eight to ten weeks, to initiate flowering for the following year. The optimal temperature range for this vernalization is between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit, which mimics natural winter conditions. Storing the entire pot in an unheated garage, a cool basement, or a shed where temperatures remain above freezing but within the cold range is ideal.
If the storage location is prone to temperatures above 55 degrees Fahrenheit, the bulb may prematurely sprout, wasting its stored energy. Alternatively, the bulb can be lifted from the pot, gently cleaned, and stored in a breathable medium like peat moss or vermiculite inside a paper bag or box. This method ensures the bulb does not dry out excessively, a risk for lily bulbs which lack the protective tunic of other bulb types.
Throughout the dormancy period, the bulb needs minimal moisture and should be checked monthly to ensure it is not molding or shriveling. In late winter or early spring, the dormant bulb can be repotted in fresh soil or planted directly into the garden once the soil is workable. While forcing an indoor rebloom is difficult for the home grower due to the need for precise temperature controls, planting the bulb outdoors allows it to follow its natural growth cycle, leading to renewed flowers in the summer.