The period immediately following the loss of the last bloom is a transition into a vegetative growth phase. For the common Phalaenopsis, or Moth Orchid, the end of the flowering cycle signals the plant is beginning to recover the energy expended on producing blooms. This recovery stage is the most important time for the plant’s long-term health and its ability to rebloom successfully. Providing specific care now enables the orchid to build strength in its roots and leaves for the next display.
Managing the Spent Flower Spike
Once all the flowers have dropped from the stalk, you have two options for managing the spent flower spike. The first is to cut the entire spike off near the base of the plant, leaving a small stub of about one inch. This directs all the plant’s energy toward developing new leaves and roots, allowing for maximum recovery and a stronger new spike later on. This approach is recommended for plants that appear weak or have only a few leaves.
The second option, possible only with Phalaenopsis orchids, is to encourage a secondary, smaller bloom from the existing spike. To attempt this, locate the first or second triangular node below where the lowest flower was attached. Make a clean cut approximately one inch above this green or healthy-looking node. This cut can stimulate the node to produce a side shoot that will develop new buds, though the resulting flowers will be fewer and smaller than the original display.
Use a clean, sharp, and sterilized cutting tool, such as a razor blade or pruning shears. Sterilize the tool with rubbing alcohol or a 10% bleach solution to prevent the transmission of pathogens. Some growers also apply powdered cinnamon, a natural antifungal agent, to the cut end of the spike to seal the wound.
Routine Care During the Resting Phase
The post-bloom vegetative phase requires consistent cultural conditions to support robust plant development. Position the orchid in a location that provides bright, indirect light for photosynthesis without the risk of leaf scorch. An east-facing window or a filtered south- or west-facing window is suitable for the Moth Orchid.
Watering should be consistent, using a “soak and drain” technique where the potting medium is thoroughly saturated and then allowed to dry almost completely. A good method involves running lukewarm water through the medium for a minute and allowing it to drain fully. This process is typically needed every seven to ten days, depending on the environment and potting medium.
Ensure that no water collects in the center crown where the leaves meet, as this can lead to crown rot. If water pools there, gently blot it out with a paper towel. Fertilization should continue during this growth phase to provide nutrients for new leaf and root production. Apply a balanced orchid fertilizer (e.g., 20-20-20 or 10-10-10) mixed at half-strength on a “weakly, weekly” schedule or every other watering.
When and How to Repot
Repotting is necessary every one to two years, usually when the potting medium begins to decompose. Decomposed bark or moss compacts, retaining too much moisture, which suffocates the roots and encourages rot. Repotting should always occur after blooming, ideally when new root tips are emerging, indicating active growth.
Signs that repotting is needed include:
- A sour or stale odor from the pot.
- Roots that are circling tightly.
- The medium turning into a fine, soil-like consistency.
To begin, gently remove the plant from its container, using a dull, flat object around the edge if necessary to detach stubborn roots. Remove all the old, deteriorated media from the roots.
Inspect the root system and use a sterilized cutting tool to trim away any roots that are brown, mushy, or hollow, as these are dead. Live roots are firm and typically green or white. Repot the orchid into a container that is only slightly larger, using a fresh orchid mix, such as fir bark or sphagnum moss. Ensure the crown remains above the potting medium to maintain proper airflow and prevent rot.
Triggering the Next Bloom Cycle
Shifting the plant back into a flowering cycle requires specific environmental manipulation, primarily involving temperature changes. The most reliable method to initiate a new flower spike in Phalaenopsis is to introduce a sustained temperature differential.
For several weeks, aim for nighttime temperatures consistently lower than daytime temperatures, typically ranging between 55°F and 65°F. Daytime temperatures should remain in the normal range of 70°F to 80°F, creating a difference of 5 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit. Maintain this temperature drop for two to four weeks, or until a new spike is visibly emerging from the stem near the base of the leaves.
Maintaining high light levels is also important during this phase. Adequate light fuels the energy-intensive process of flower spike formation and can help compensate if the required temperature differential is difficult to achieve. Once the new spike is actively growing, return the orchid to its normal, warmer environment to allow the spike to mature and bloom.