The Monstera deliciosa, commonly known as the Swiss Cheese Plant, is a popular tropical houseplant celebrated for its distinctive, fenestrated foliage. While it thrives in warm, bright conditions during spring and summer, the colder months force the plant into a period of reduced metabolic activity. Shorter days, weaker sunlight, and indoor heating require a fundamental change in the care routine. This adjustment protects the Monstera from winter stresses that can lead to leaf damage or root decline.
Adjusting Light and Temperature Conditions
The intensity and duration of natural light decrease significantly during winter, negatively impacting the Monstera’s ability to photosynthesize. To compensate, relocation to the brightest available window exposure is necessary. In the Northern Hemisphere, this often means moving the plant closer to a south or west-facing window to receive maximum filtered light. The lower angle and intensity of the winter sun reduce the risk of leaf scorching common in summer.
Temperature stability is important, as the Monstera thrives in a steady environment, ideally between 65°F and 75°F (18°C and 24°C). Avoid placing the plant near exterior windows or doors, which expose it to cold drafts that can shock the foliage and root system. Also, avoid positioning the plant directly above or next to heat sources like radiators or forced-air vents. These sources emit dry, intense heat that can quickly dehydrate the leaves and cause brown, crispy edges.
Rethinking Your Watering Schedule
Overwatering is the most frequent cause of Monstera decline during winter, often resulting in root rot. Reduced light exposure and cooler temperatures slow the plant’s growth rate, meaning it consumes water much slower than during the peak growing season. Consequently, the soil takes longer to dry out, and maintaining a summer watering schedule will keep the roots saturated. Soggy soil lacks oxygen, creating an environment where fungal pathogens thrive, leading to the decay of the root system.
To prevent this issue, the most reliable method for determining when to water is a physical check of the soil moisture. Wait until the top two to three inches of the potting mix have completely dried out before reintroducing water. For larger pots, waiting until the top third of the soil column is dry provides a safer margin against over-saturation. When watering, the process should still be thorough, allowing water to flow freely from the drainage holes to ensure the entire root ball is hydrated and accumulated salts are flushed out.
Addressing Winter Humidity and Pests
Central heating systems drastically lower indoor moisture during winter, creating a challenging environment for the tropical Monstera. These plants prefer moderate to high humidity, ideally around 50% to 60%. Low moisture can lead to leaf issues like brown, crispy edges and tips. Utilizing a dedicated room humidifier is the most effective way to raise the ambient humidity consistently.
A localized solution involves placing the Monstera on a pebble tray—a shallow dish filled with water and gravel. As the water evaporates, it creates a small pocket of moisture immediately surrounding the foliage. Low humidity increases the plant’s vulnerability to certain houseplant pests, particularly spider mites and thrips, which thrive in dry conditions. Regularly inspecting the undersides of the leaves and wiping them clean with a damp cloth helps detect pests early and removes dust that hinders photosynthesis.
Dormancy and Fertilizer Cessation
During the winter, the Monstera naturally enters a period of reduced growth in response to the shorter photoperiod and lower light intensity. This metabolic slowdown means the plant is not actively using the nutrients it normally consumes to produce new leaves and stems. Therefore, all fertilization, whether liquid or slow-release, should be suspended from late fall through the winter season.
Continuing to feed the plant during this resting phase risks over-fertilization. Unused mineral salts from the fertilizer accumulate in the soil, concentrating around the root system. This salt buildup can cause chemical burns to the roots, damaging their tissues and impairing the plant’s ability to absorb water. Symptoms include yellowing leaves and brown spots on the tips. Fertilization should only resume in the early spring once daylight hours lengthen and new, active growth is observed.