Lilies (Lilium genus) are highly valued for their large, often fragrant flowers and striking appearance. Although traditionally garden plants, lilies grow successfully in containers, which allows for greater flexibility in placement and display. Growing these bulbs in pots requires specialized attention, focusing on controlled conditions and careful management of their lifecycle. Successful cultivation depends on the correct initial setup, consistent routine care, and proper post-bloom maintenance.
Choosing the Right Environment and Container
Selecting the appropriate container is the first step for a healthy lily plant. The pot must have sufficient depth, ideally 10 to 12 inches, to accommodate the bulb and allow for the development of stem roots, which are important for stability and nutrient uptake. Drainage holes are necessary, as lily bulbs quickly rot in saturated soil. A 6-inch depth is the minimum for short varieties, and a 6-inch pot can hold about three bulbs spaced approximately two inches apart.
Use a sterile, well-draining potting mix rather than heavy garden soil, which compacts and prevents proper aeration around the bulb. Amending a commercial mix with extra perlite or sand (about two parts mix to one part sand) helps to improve drainage and prevents excessive moisture retention. Lilies require a sunny location to produce the best blooms, ideally receiving at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. In regions with intense summer heat, position the pot to receive afternoon shade to prevent foliage scorching.
Essential Daily Care
Maintaining consistent moisture levels is a daily concern, as the limited soil volume in a container dries out faster than garden beds. The potting mix must remain consistently moist throughout the growing season but must never become waterlogged or soggy. Overwatering is a common problem leading to bulb rot, so check the soil by inserting a finger about an inch deep before adding more water. When watering, continue until excess water drains freely from the bottom holes, ensuring the entire root zone is saturated.
Protecting the potted plant from environmental extremes contributes to its overall health. Intense heat can stress the lily, so moving the pot to a cooler, partially shaded spot during the hottest part of the day is beneficial. Good air circulation around the plant is also important, particularly for preventing fungal diseases like botrytis, which thrive in stagnant, humid conditions. Placing the container in an area with a gentle breeze, away from crowded plant groupings, helps keep the foliage dry and healthy.
Feeding and Seasonal Maintenance
Lilies are heavy feeders and benefit from scheduled fertilization throughout their active growth period. Begin feeding the plant once shoots emerge from the soil and continue every two to four weeks until the blooming period ends. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer is appropriate for early growth. Switching to a high-potassium or high-phosphorus formula, such as a tomato feed, encourages stronger blooms and bulb development. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as this promotes excessive leaf growth at the expense of flower production.
After the flowers fade, deadheading should be performed to remove the spent blooms. This prevents the plant from diverting energy into producing seeds, channeling that energy back to the underground bulb for next year’s growth. Cut off only the faded flower head and the ovary at the top of the stalk, leaving the main stem and all green foliage intact. Regularly inspect the leaves for common pests, such as aphids, which can be dislodged with a strong stream of water or treated with an insecticidal soap.
Preparing Lilies for Dormancy and Reblooming
The period immediately following the blooming season is important for ensuring the lily reblooms the following year. Allow the foliage to die back naturally, as the green leaves continue to photosynthesize and create the carbohydrates the bulb needs to store energy. Do not cut the stem or leaves back until they have completely yellowed and turned brown, signaling that the energy transfer is complete. Removing the green stem too early will starve the bulb and result in weak or absent flowers the next season.
Once the foliage has fully withered and the stem is dry, cut it back to just above the soil line. The potted bulbs require a period of cold dormancy to initiate the next season’s growth and flower production. Move the container to a cool, dark, and frost-free location for the winter, such as an unheated garage, shed, or basement. Stop all watering during this time to prevent the dormant bulbs from rotting. In early spring, bring the pot out, resume light watering, and consider refreshing the top layer of potting mix or repotting the bulbs for fresh nutrients.