Hyacinths, with their dense clusters of fragrant flowers, are a favorite for ushering in spring. After the vibrant display fades, many gardeners wonder what to do, especially with bulbs forced indoors early. Instead of treating them as disposable annuals, you can save the bulb to rebloom in subsequent seasons. By understanding the plant’s natural life cycle and providing specific post-bloom care, you can recharge the bulb’s energy reserves for future flowering.
Immediate Steps After the Blooms Fade
Once the colorful florets on the hyacinth’s spike begin to wilt or turn brown, the first step is to remove the spent flower stalk. This action, known as deadheading, prevents the plant from diverting energy into seed production. Allowing the plant to create seeds consumes stored resources, weakening its ability to bloom the following year. Use clean shears to cut the stalk low down, near the base, ensuring you do not damage the surrounding green leaves. The goal is to remove only the faded spike while leaving all foliage intact. Bulbs forced indoors should be moved to a bright, sunny spot where they can receive full sun exposure.
Supporting the Foliage to Recharge the Bulb
This stage is crucial for ensuring the hyacinth has the energy to flower again. The green leaves remaining after deadheading are responsible for photosynthesis, converting sunlight into carbohydrates. These carbohydrates are then transported and stored in the bulb, replenishing the reserves depleted during the flowering process. The leaves must be allowed to complete this energy-storing function.
Do not cut or braid the foliage while it is still green, as this prematurely halts the vital nutrient transfer process. Wait patiently for the leaves to naturally yellow and wither completely, which signals that the bulb has absorbed all the available energy. During this time, continue to water the plant, but reduce the frequency, maintaining a soil that is consistently moist but never waterlogged to prevent rot.
Provide a boost of nutrients with a specialized bulb fertilizer immediately after the blooms fade. Select a formula low in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium, such as a 5-10-10 or 10-10-10 blend. Nitrogen promotes leafy growth, which is no longer desired, while phosphorus supports root and flower formation, and potassium strengthens the overall plant structure. Apply the fertilizer directly to the soil and water it in, ensuring the bulb has the necessary building blocks for next season’s growth.
Transitioning the Bulb to Dormancy
Once the foliage has fully turned yellow and withered, the bulb has entered its natural dormant period. For hyacinths planted directly in the garden, the bulbs can remain undisturbed in the ground. Mark the location to avoid accidental digging and ensure the area has good drainage throughout the summer to prevent rotting.
For bulbs forced in containers indoors, they must be lifted from the soil once the leaves are completely brown. Carefully remove the bulbs, gently brush off loose soil, and trim the dead foliage back to about an inch above the bulb. Before storage, the bulbs need to cure by drying them thoroughly in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated area for several days.
Proper storage is essential for keeping the bulb healthy until replanting. The ideal conditions are a cool, dry, and dark location, with a temperature range consistently between 50°F and 70°F. Store the cured bulbs in a breathable material, avoiding plastic containers which trap moisture and can lead to fungal diseases and rot.
Storage Materials
Breathable materials for storage include:
- A mesh bag
- An onion sack
- A paper bag
- Layering with peat moss
- Layering with sawdust
Preparing Bulbs for Next Season’s Rebloom
The final requirement for successful reblooming is satisfying the hyacinth’s need for a sustained chilling period, which mimics the natural winter cycle. This cold exposure is a biological trigger, essential for flower bud formation (vernalization) inside the bulb. Without adequate chilling, the bulb will only produce leaves or stunted flowers.
For forced bulbs, this chilling period must be artificially provided and requires 10 to 14 weeks of consistent cold temperatures. The optimal temperature range is between 35°F and 45°F. A refrigerator is an excellent place to store the bulbs, but keep them away from ripening fruit which emits ethylene gas harmful to bulbs.
The stored bulbs can be replanted outdoors in the autumn, typically six to eight weeks before the first hard frost. Plant the bulbs at a depth of about six inches, or roughly three times the height of the bulb, and space them three to six inches apart. Choosing a site with well-draining soil and full to partial sun gives the hyacinth the best chance to establish roots and deliver a fragrant rebloom the following spring.