Freesia is a tender perennial admired globally for its vibrant, trumpet-shaped flowers and powerful, sweet, citrus-like fragrance. Native to South Africa, this flowering plant grows from a bulb-like structure called a corm. Freesia is popular in the floral industry due to its long vase life, making it a favorite for cut flower arrangements. Each elegant, arching stem produces between six and twelve blossoms in a wide array of colors.
Site Selection and Initial Planting
Selecting the proper location is essential for successfully growing freesia. They perform best in full sun, ideally six or more hours of direct light daily, though they can tolerate light afternoon shade in warmer climates. The ground must be well-draining, as the corms are highly susceptible to rot if they sit in waterlogged soil.
Amending the planting area with organic matter, such as compost, ensures the soil remains loose and porous. Freesias prefer a slightly sandy or loamy texture with a neutral to slightly alkaline soil pH. Plant the corms with the pointed end facing upward, positioning them about two inches deep in the soil.
Space the corms approximately two to three inches apart to allow for adequate air circulation and growth. In mild climates (USDA Hardiness Zones 9 and 10), corms are typically planted in the fall for spring blooms. Gardeners in cooler regions should wait until spring, after the last expected frost, to plant the corms for summer flowers. When growing in containers, select deep pots to accommodate the plant’s long taproot.
Ongoing Care During Active Growth
Consistent moisture is required once the freesia shoots begin to emerge, but avoid overwatering, which causes the corms to rot. After initial planting, water sparingly until the first sprouts appear. Then, maintain a regular schedule of watering deeply once or twice a week, depending on local weather. Keep the soil consistently moist, but never soggy, allowing the top layer to dry out slightly between applications.
The slender stems of the freesia often require physical support to remain upright, especially once the heavy blossoms form. Staking the plants is recommended to prevent the stems from bending or breaking under the weight of the flowers. Using thin bamboo stakes or a circular support structure is effective, particularly when the plants are about six inches tall and before the buds fully develop.
Freesias are light feeders, but they benefit from a balanced or low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer applied regularly during active growth. Once flower buds begin to form, switch to a formula higher in phosphorus and potassium. Applying this feed every two to four weeks encourages robust flower production and strengthens the stems.
Good air circulation around the foliage helps prevent fungal issues like rust or Fusarium wilt. Monitor the plants for common pests such as aphids, which tend to congregate on new growth and buds. A strong spray of water or an application of insecticidal soap can manage minor infestations.
Managing Dormancy and Reblooming
After the freesia has finished blooming, the first step is to remove the spent flower stalks, a process known as deadheading. This prevents the plant from diverting energy into seed production, allowing it to focus on storing energy in the corm. It is important to leave the green foliage intact following the bloom period.
The leaves must be allowed to naturally yellow and wilt over about eight weeks. During this time, the foliage continues to photosynthesize, transferring energy and nutrients back down to the corm for the following year’s flowers. Cutting the leaves back too soon significantly diminishes the corm’s ability to rebloom.
In areas outside of the mild USDA Zones 9 and 10, freesia corms are not tolerant of freezing temperatures and must be lifted for winter storage. Before the first hard frost, carefully dig up the corms. Clean off excess soil, allow them to air-dry for several days in a protected, shaded location, and then remove the shriveled mother corm and any remaining foliage.
Store the cleaned corms in a cool, dry, dark location, such as a basement or garage, where temperatures remain consistently around 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Placing them in a paper bag or a container filled with peat moss or sand ensures proper air circulation and prevents moisture build-up. The corms can be replanted the following spring to initiate a new cycle of growth.