Caladiums, commonly known as Angel Wings, are tropical foliage plants cherished for their spectacular, papery leaves patterned with vibrant colors like white, pink, red, and green. These plants grow from underground tubers and are native to the warm, humid rainforests of Central and South America. Cultivating them successfully in containers, whether indoors or on a patio, requires specific attention to their tropical needs. This guide details the requirements for maintaining these strikingly beautiful plants in a pot environment.
Starting Strong: Potting Media and Container Choice
Selecting the correct container and planting medium is foundational for long-term caladium health. The pot must have sufficient drainage holes, as tubers are highly susceptible to rot if they sit in standing water. Containers that are wider than they are deep, typically eight to twelve inches across, are preferred to accommodate the tuber’s growth habit.
The ideal potting mix balances excellent drainage and sufficient moisture retention. A rich, well-draining blend is recommended, typically composed of components like peat moss or coco coir for moisture, combined with perlite or coarse sand for aeration. The blend should also be slightly acidic, maintaining a pH range between 5.5 and 6.5, which mimics their native soil environment. Plant the tuber one-and-a-half to two inches deep in the soil with the knobby side, which contains the growing points, facing upward.
Optimizing the Environment: Light, Heat, and Humidity
Caladiums thrive best in bright, indirect light, which maximizes the vibrancy of their leaf coloration. Avoid direct, intense afternoon sunlight, especially in warmer climates, as it can scorch the delicate leaf tissue. White and pink-leaved varieties tolerate slightly more sun exposure than darker red or green cultivars, which prefer shadier positions.
As tropical plants, caladiums demand consistent warmth and will not initiate growth until the soil temperature reaches 65°F to 70°F. Optimal air temperatures during the active growing season range between 70°F and 85°F; they suffer when temperatures consistently drop below 60°F. Placing potted plants near an east or north-facing window indoors provides the necessary filtered light.
Maintaining high ambient humidity is important, as caladiums are accustomed to the moisture-rich air of the rainforest understory. They perform best when relative humidity levels are consistently between 60% and 75%. To increase humidity indoors, place the container on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot bottom does not touch the water. Grouping several moisture-loving plants together creates a beneficial microclimate, or a small room humidifier can be used.
Essential Maintenance: Watering and Fertilization
Consistent moisture without saturation is the primary objective when watering potted caladiums during their active phase. The soil should be kept evenly moist, but never waterlogged, which is the most common cause of tuber rot. Water thoroughly when the top inch of soil feels dry to the touch.
It is beneficial to use room-temperature water, as cold water can cause a thermal shock to the plant’s roots. Ensuring that any excess water drains completely from the pot is necessary before returning the plant to its location. This consistent moisture management supports the plant’s rapid growth and the expansion of its large, colorful foliage.
Because caladiums produce a significant amount of leaf mass, they require regular nutrient supplementation. During peak growing months, apply a balanced, water-soluble liquid fertilizer every two to four weeks. Use a formula with a balanced nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium ratio, such as 8-8-8 or a high-nitrogen blend, to support lush leaf development. Always dilute the liquid fertilizer to half the recommended strength to prevent nutrient burn. Alternatively, incorporate a slow-release granular fertilizer into the potting mix at the beginning of the season.
Preparing for Winter: The Dormancy Cycle
Caladiums are deciduous, requiring a period of dormancy to rest and regenerate energy reserves in their tubers. This cycle is naturally triggered in the fall by decreasing air temperatures and shortening daylight hours. As the plant enters this resting phase, the leaves will begin to yellow, droop, and die back.
Once this visual cue appears, gradually reduce the watering schedule and eventually stop completely. Cut the foliage back only after it has completely shriveled and turned brown, ensuring the tuber reabsorbs all available nutrients. Tubers can be left in the dry soil within the pot for the winter, or they can be lifted, cleaned, and air-dried for seven to ten days to allow the outer skin to cure.
Store the dormant tubers in a dark, dry, and well-ventilated location, such as a basement or garage, where the temperature remains consistently between 50°F and 60°F. Pack the tubers loosely in a medium like dry peat moss or vermiculite inside a breathable container, such as a paper bag or cardboard box. This storage method prevents desiccation and rot, ensuring the tubers are viable for replanting the following spring.