Bermuda grass is a popular warm-season turf choice for lawns across Georgia, thriving in the region’s hot, humid summers. Known for its aggressive growth, it forms a dense, durable turf that stands up well to heavy activity. Maintaining a high-quality Bermuda lawn requires a specific maintenance schedule that differs significantly from other common Georgia grasses like Fescue or Centipede. Successful cultivation means providing consistent care tailored to its rapid growth and the challenges posed by Georgia’s climate and clay-heavy soils.
Essential Mowing and Soil Preparation
Bermuda grass demands a low and frequent mowing schedule to maintain its characteristic density. Cutting height should be maintained between 1 and 1.5 inches for common varieties, or closer to one inch for hybrid types. During the peak growing season, this turf may require cutting every three to five days to prevent excessive leaf removal.
A fundamental rule is the “one-third rule,” which states that no more than one-third of the grass blade’s total height should be removed in a single session. Violating this rule can stress the plant, causing root growth to temporarily cease and leading to a scalped appearance. Mowing with a sharp blade is important, as dull blades tear the grass, leaving ragged edges that increase water loss and susceptibility to disease.
Soil preparation is important in Georgia, where heavy clay soils are common and prone to compaction. To combat this, core aeration should be performed annually during the active growth season, typically from late spring into early summer. Aeration involves mechanically removing small plugs of soil, which relieves compaction, improves water and nutrient absorption, and encourages deeper root growth.
Bermuda grass’s aggressive growth also leads to a thick buildup of thatch, a dense layer of dead stems and roots above the soil surface. If this layer exceeds half an inch, it must be addressed through dethatching or vertical mowing to prevent poor drainage and disease. Dethatching, like aeration, is best done during the peak growing period to allow the turf to recover quickly.
Strategic Watering Practices for Georgia’s Climate
Effective hydration focuses on encouraging deep root growth to increase the turf’s drought tolerance. The recommendation is to provide a total of one inch of water per week, including rainfall, delivered through deep, infrequent watering sessions. This practice saturates the soil deeply, signaling the roots to grow downward in search of moisture, making the lawn more resilient during dry spells.
Light, daily sprinkling should be avoided, as it promotes shallow root systems vulnerable to Georgia’s intense summer heat. The best time to irrigate is in the early morning, preferably before 10 AM, which allows the grass blades to dry quickly. Watering in the morning minimizes water loss due to evaporation and reduces the duration of leaf wetness, a condition that encourages fungal diseases.
Homeowners must adjust watering habits seasonally, especially as the grass prepares for winter dormancy. Once temperatures begin to cool in the fall, watering frequency should be reduced. While the turf is dormant during the colder months, it requires little to no irrigation, although new sod laid in the fall or winter should be kept consistently moist.
Fertilizer Schedule and Nutrient Management
Bermuda grass is a heavy nitrogen feeder, and a consistent fertilization program is necessary to support its vigorous growth throughout the Georgia growing season. The first nitrogen application should be timed for spring green-up, which occurs when the soil temperature at a four-inch depth consistently reaches 65°F and is rising. Applying nitrogen too early, before this threshold is met, can encourage new growth easily damaged by a late frost.
A standard schedule involves an initial spring application followed by subsequent feedings every six to eight weeks until mid-September. These summer applications should focus on high nitrogen formulas, ideally using slow-release fertilizers, which provide a steady nutrient supply and prevent sudden growth surges that can lead to excessive thatch. A final light application of a potassium-rich fertilizer in early fall strengthens the roots and improves cold weather hardiness before winter dormancy.
Prior to initiating any fertilization program, a soil test is recommended to determine the soil’s pH and existing nutrient levels. Georgia’s soils often tend toward acidity, and Bermuda grass prefers a pH range between 5.5 and 6.5. If the test results indicate overly acidic soil, an application of lime, specifically dolomitic lime, may be necessary to raise the pH and ensure nutrients are available to the grass roots.
Weed prevention is integrated into the nutrient management timeline through the use of pre-emergent herbicides. These products must be applied in the late winter or early spring, before soil temperatures reach 55°F and before the Bermuda grass fully greens up. This timing is important for controlling annual weeds common in Georgia, such as crabgrass and goosegrass, by preventing their seeds from germinating.
Managing Pests, Weeds, and Diseases
Even with optimal cultural practices, Bermuda grass can face pressure from pests, weeds, and diseases common to the region’s climate. Common broadleaf weeds like clover, dollarweed, and wild onion often require treatment with a post-emergent selective herbicide. These herbicides should be applied directly to actively growing weeds, generally during the cooler parts of the day, and the product label must be checked to ensure it is safe for Bermuda turf.
Several insect pests thrive in Georgia’s warm, humid environment and can cause damage to Bermuda lawns. Mole crickets and white grubs are soil-dwelling pests that feed on roots and underground stems, leading to patchy, thinning turf that may feel spongy underfoot. Armyworms, particularly the fall armyworm, can be destructive, rapidly consuming large sections of the lawn in a short period.
Common fungal diseases, such as Dollar Spot and Brown Patch, are often linked to environmental stress or improper lawn care. Dollar Spot appears as small, circular, straw-colored patches, while Brown Patch (also called Large Patch) creates larger, irregularly shaped areas of thinning, discolored grass. These issues frequently arise from conditions like excessive moisture (from overwatering or watering too late in the day), high humidity, or nutrient imbalances.
Mitigation for diseases primarily involves correcting underlying cultural practices, such as improving soil drainage and adhering to recommended watering and fertilization schedules. For severe or persistent fungal outbreaks, a targeted fungicide application may be necessary to protect the turf. Consistent, high-quality maintenance remains the most effective defense, as a healthy, dense lawn is naturally more resistant to common regional problems.