The end of an orchid’s flowering period signals that the plant is entering a new phase. During this post-bloom time, the orchid recovers energy, builds new roots and leaves, and prepares for its next floral display. Successful reblooming depends on the care provided during this vegetative stage. Taking immediate steps followed by a consistent routine will set your orchid up for success.
Dealing with the Flower Stem
Once the final bloom drops from your Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid), decide whether to prune the flower spike partially or completely based on its health and color. If the spike has turned brown or yellow, it is dead and should be removed entirely, as it will not produce more flowers. Use a sterilized cutting tool to trim the dead spike down to about one inch above the plant’s base.
If the spike remains green and plump, it still has the potential to rebloom. To encourage a second, smaller spike, find a healthy node—a small, triangular bump on the stem below where the last flower bloomed. Make a clean cut with a sterilized tool about half an inch above the second or third node from the bottom. This leaves a dormant bud that may activate and produce a secondary flower spike or a small plantlet known as a keiki.
This pruning approach is primarily for Phalaenopsis hybrids, the most common household orchids. Other types, such as Cattleyas and Paphiopedilums, bloom only once per spike, so their stems should be cut at the base once the flowers fade. Dendrobium orchids bloom from their cane-like pseudobulbs, which should be left intact after flowering because they act as energy storage organs.
Maintaining Vegetative Growth (Watering, Light, and Nutrition)
After flowering, the orchid focuses on vegetative growth, requiring adjustments in watering, light, and feeding. Proper watering is necessary, but frequency depends on the potting medium and environment, often translating to a thorough soak every seven to ten days. The indicator for when to water is root color: healthy roots appear bright green when wet and turn silvery-white when dry. Always ensure the pot drains completely, as overwatering often results from the potting medium not drying fast enough, leading to root rot.
Providing the correct light intensity is important for building the energy reserves needed for the next bloom cycle. Phalaenopsis prefer bright, indirect light, generally between 1,000 and 1,500 foot-candles. An east-facing window is often ideal, or a shaded south or west window can work if the light is filtered by a sheer curtain to prevent leaf scorching. If the leaves become dark green, the plant is receiving too little light; if they turn reddish-yellow, the light is too intense.
The vegetative phase requires a shift in the fertilizer regime to support new leaf and root development. The plant benefits from a fertilizer with a balanced NPK ratio, such as 20-20-20, or a high-nitrogen formula like 30-10-10, especially if the orchid is potted in a bark-based mix. A popular method is to fertilize “weakly, weekly,” applying a solution diluted to about one-quarter of the strength recommended on the label every time you water. This consistent, low-dose feeding ensures nutrients are available to the actively growing plant.
Triggering the Next Bloom Cycle
The goal of the vegetative growth phase is to store enough energy to initiate a new flower spike, which can take six to twelve months. Once the plant has established new leaves and roots, provide a specific environmental trigger to move it from growth to bloom. For most Phalaenopsis varieties, this trigger is a drop in temperature that mimics seasonal changes.
To initiate a spike, expose the orchid to a period of cooler night temperatures for three to four weeks, ideally in the autumn. Aim for night temperatures to consistently fall to around 55°F to 60°F, while day temperatures remain in the 75°F to 85°F range. This 10 to 15 degree Fahrenheit temperature differential between day and night signals the plant to begin spike formation.
This is also the best time to repot the orchid if its potting medium has broken down or if the plant has become root-bound, a task generally needed every one to two years. Repotting should occur just after the flowering period ends and before a new spike appears, allowing the plant time to settle into its new media. Use a fresh, coarse mix, consisting of fir bark, charcoal, and perlite, to ensure air circulation and drainage for the roots. Consistency and patience are necessary throughout this process, as the orchid needs time to transition and build strength for new blooms.