The Easter Lily (Lilium longiflorum) is a highly recognizable flowering bulb celebrated for its fragrant, white, trumpet-shaped blooms. Commercial growers “force” this perennial to bloom precisely around the spring holiday, so it often arrives with several buds and open flowers. To successfully maintain the health and beauty of this temporary houseplant, specific indoor care instructions must be followed diligently. This guide details how to keep your Easter Lily thriving indoors and prepare the bulb for its next season of growth.
Establishing the Ideal Indoor Environment
The longevity of your Easter Lily’s blooms depends heavily on maintaining a cool, stable environment immediately after purchase. Locate the potted plant where it will receive bright, indirect sunlight throughout the day. A spot near a window that faces east or south is ideal, as intense afternoon light can scorch the delicate white petals and green foliage.
The temperature of the location is the most important factor in extending the flowering period. Easter Lilies prefer a cool indoor climate, with daytime temperatures ideally kept between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Nighttime temperatures should be slightly cooler, dropping to the range of 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, which mimics the natural conditions that slow the bloom cycle. Avoid placing the pot near any sources of direct heat, such as radiators or heating vents, to prevent premature wilting.
Daily Care: Watering and Humidity Management
Proper watering is crucial to prevent the two most common problems for potted lilies: root rot from overwatering or dehydration from neglect. Only water the plant when the top inch of the potting soil feels dry to the touch, ensuring the soil remains evenly moist but never saturated. When you do water, remove the decorative foil or plastic wrapper and water until it flows freely from the drainage holes.
Allow all excess water to drain away completely for about 15 to 20 minutes before replacing the decorative wrap or saucer, as leaving the bulb sitting in standing water quickly leads to root rot. The average household humidity level is generally sufficient for this plant. Since the plant was professionally fertilized during its greenhouse forcing, adding fertilizer is unnecessary while it is actively blooming indoors.
Extending the Plant’s Life: Post-Bloom Care
Once the elegant, trumpet-shaped flowers begin to fade, the focus of care shifts from maintaining blooms to nourishing the bulb for future growth. As each flower withers, use clean scissors to snip off the spent blossom, a process known as deadheading. This action prevents the plant from diverting energy into seed production, allowing it to concentrate resources on the underground bulb.
It is important not to cut back the main stem or the foliage, even as the leaves begin to yellow. The green leaves must remain to photosynthesize sunlight. Allowing the foliage to naturally die back is how the bulb stores the necessary energy and carbohydrates for the next flowering season. Continue to water the plant and keep it in a bright location until the stem and leaves have completely turned yellow and died down to the soil level, which may take several weeks.
After the foliage has fully withered, cut the remaining stem down to the soil line and prepare the bulb for planting outdoors, provided the danger of frost has passed. The Easter Lily bulb is hardy in USDA Zones 4 through 8. A successful outdoor transition requires hardening the plant by gradually exposing it to outdoor conditions over a week. When planting, choose a site with well-drained soil and bury the bulb approximately six inches deep.