The Amaryllis is a popular bulb often received as a gift around the winter holidays, known for its trumpet-shaped blooms. This tropical perennial is easy to grow indoors, offering vibrant color when the outside world is dormant. Successfully caring for an Amaryllis throughout the year requires mimicking its natural cycle of growth, flowering, and rest. Providing the correct conditions at each stage encourages the bulb to rebloom reliably for many seasons.
Initial Potting and Placement
The bulb prefers to be somewhat pot-bound. Select a pot that is only slightly wider than the bulb, allowing about one inch of space between the bulb and the edge. The container must have drainage holes to prevent the bulb from sitting in water, which can quickly lead to rot.
Plant the bulb in a well-draining potting medium, such as a mix that includes peat and perlite or a cactus compost. Position the bulb so that one-third to one-half of its body remains exposed above the soil line. This shallow planting helps prevent moisture from collecting around the neck of the bulb, reducing the risk of fungal disease. Once potted, water the soil thoroughly to settle it. Place the pot in a warm location, ideally 68 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, that receives bright, indirect light.
Routine Care During Active Growth
Once the Amaryllis begins to send up its flower stalk, water sparingly during the initial growth phase, allowing the top inch of soil to dry out completely before rewatering. As the stem elongates and the leaves appear, increase watering frequency to keep the soil consistently moist, though never waterlogged. Rotate the pot regularly to prevent the flower stalk from leaning toward the light source.
The plant thrives in bright, indirect sunlight, such as a south or west-facing window. Once the flower buds open, moving the plant to a cooler location (60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit) and out of direct sun can significantly extend the life of the blossoms. Begin feeding the plant once active growth is visible, using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 formula. Apply this fertilizer every two to four weeks during the active growth period to help the bulb store energy for the next flowering cycle.
Inducing Dormancy for Next Season’s Flowers
After the flowers fade, the care transitions to rebuilding the bulb’s energy reserves for the following season. Cut the spent flower stalk back to about one inch above the bulb, but leave the green leaves intact. These leaves are responsible for photosynthesis, converting light energy into sugars stored in the bulb. Continue to treat the Amaryllis as a standard houseplant, maintaining regular watering and fertilization throughout the late spring and summer.
Around late summer or early fall (typically August or September), begin inducing dormancy by withholding water and ceasing all fertilization. The leaves will naturally yellow and wither as the plant enters its resting phase, signaling that energy transfer to the bulb is complete. Move the potted bulb to a cool, dark, and dry location, such as a basement or closet, where the temperature remains consistently between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The bulb needs this cool rest for a minimum of 8 to 10 weeks to reset its internal clock. After the dormant period, bring the bulb back into a warm, bright location and water thoroughly to signal the start of a new bloom cycle.