A waxed amaryllis is a large Hippeastrum bulb that has been completely coated in a decorative layer of wax, often featuring glitter or a festive color. This unique preparation method creates a self-contained environment for the plant to flower without the need for soil or water. The bulb itself is a storage organ, holding all the necessary energy, carbohydrates, and moisture required to fuel a single spectacular blooming cycle. These bulbs are typically sold as low-maintenance holiday gift items, often supported by a wire stand embedded in the wax to keep them upright on a flat surface.
Immediate Care and Placement
Upon receiving your waxed amaryllis, choose an appropriate location. Watering is not necessary, as the wax coating seals in moisture; adding water will only promote rot. Place the bulb in a spot that receives bright, indirect light to encourage healthy, straight growth.
An ideal indoor temperature range is between 60°F and 75°F. Avoid placing the bulb in direct, intense sunlight, as excessive heat can melt the wax or prematurely dry out the stored reserves. Keep the bulb away from cold drafts, such as those near exterior doors, to prevent shocking the plant and interrupting its growth cycle.
What to Expect During the Blooming Period
The growth process begins with a thick flower stalk, or scape, emerging from the top of the bulb. This stalk grows rapidly, often reaching maturity within four to six weeks, when large, trumpet-shaped blossoms will open. The bulb typically produces one or two stalks, each bearing up to four flowers, providing a continuous display for approximately three weeks.
As the stalk grows, it may become top-heavy and lean toward the light source. To prevent this, rotate the bulb a quarter turn every few days to encourage vertical growth. Once the flowers fade, deadheading is recommended to tidy the plant and direct energy toward remaining buds. Clip only the spent flowers, leaving the main stalk intact until it begins to yellow and soften.
Saving the Bulb After Flowering
Waxed amaryllis bulbs can often be saved and encouraged to rebloom, despite being sold for single-season use. After the flower stalk has completely withered, carefully remove the wax coating to free the bulb. You can gently peel or chip the wax away, or soak the bulb in lukewarm water for a few hours to loosen the coating.
Once the wax is removed, inspect the bulb for rot or mold, which appears as soft or discolored patches. A healthy bulb feels firm; trim away any dead, dry roots before repotting. Select a well-draining potting mix and a container slightly wider than the bulb, ensuring the pot has drainage holes.
Plant the bulb so that its neck and the top one-third to one-half remain above the soil line. Place the pot in a sunny location and begin moderate watering and fertilization. This vegetative growth period, lasting through spring and summer, replenishes the bulb’s depleted energy stores.
To prepare the bulb for reblooming, a period of dormancy is required, usually starting in late summer or early fall. Induce dormancy by stopping watering completely and allowing the foliage to naturally yellow and die back. Once the leaves are dry, cut them off about an inch above the bulb. Move the potted bulb to a cool, dark location, such as a basement, where temperatures remain around 50°F to 55°F for eight to ten weeks.