An Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is a popular bulb often forced to bloom indoors, providing spectacular color during the winter months. These magnificent plants are not disposable; with proper care, the large, vibrant flowers can return year after year. Success lies in understanding the plant’s natural cycle of growth, energy storage, and mandated rest. This guide provides the steps necessary to encourage perennial reblooming.
Planting the Bulb and Initial Setup
The successful journey of an Amaryllis begins with choosing the appropriate container and planting technique for the dormant bulb. Select a heavy pot that is only one to two inches wider than the bulb itself, as Amaryllis flowers best when slightly pot-bound. A heavier container is recommended to prevent the tall flower stalks from causing the plant to topple once in full bloom.
The pot must have excellent drainage holes, and the soil should be a well-draining mix, such as a standard soilless potting medium. When planting, position the bulb so the top third remains exposed above the soil line, ensuring the pointed end faces upward. Press the soil firmly around the bulb to stabilize it without damaging the roots.
Following planting, water the soil once thoroughly to settle the potting mix, but do not water again until new growth becomes visible. Place the container in a warm location, ideally between 68 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, with bright, indirect light. The bulb will typically sprout and bloom within six to eight weeks of this initial setup.
Maintaining Health During Active Growth
Once the flower stalk, or scape, begins to emerge, adjust your care routine to support the rapidly developing plant. Increase the watering frequency, keeping the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged to sustain the fast growth. Overwatering can lead to bulb rot, so allow the top half-inch of soil to dry slightly between waterings.
The developing plant benefits from bright light, which can include some direct morning sun, though consistently bright, indirect light is generally best. Rotate the pot every few days to prevent the tall flower stalk from leaning severely toward the light source. If the stem grows exceptionally tall or the large blooms become top-heavy, a slender stake may be necessary to provide support.
To prolong the life of the spectacular flowers, move the potted plant to a slightly cooler location, ideally around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, once the blossoms open. Keep the plant away from any direct heat sources, such as radiators or heating vents, which can significantly shorten the bloom period. Do not cut the leaves if they emerge before the bloom, as they are already beginning the process of energy storage.
Ensuring Rebloom Through Dormancy
The period immediately following the fading of the current flowers is when the bulb rebuilds its energy reserves. Begin by deadheading the plant, cutting the spent flower stalk down to about one inch above the bulb. Do not remove the foliage; the long, strap-like leaves engage in photosynthesis to replenish the bulb with the starches and sugars needed for the next flowering cycle.
Treat the Amaryllis as a standard houseplant throughout the spring and summer months, continuing to provide ample light and consistent moisture. Fertilization is paramount during this period, requiring a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer applied every two to four weeks. If possible, move the potted plant outdoors after the danger of frost has passed, placing it in a location with bright, dappled sunlight.
To force the bulb into its necessary rest period, stop watering and fertilizing completely around September, and bring the container indoors before the first frost. This enforced drought signals the plant to begin dormancy, and the leaves will naturally start to yellow and wither. Once the foliage has completely died back, cut the leaves to about one or two inches above the bulb.
Store the dormant bulb, still in its pot, in a cool, dark location where temperatures remain between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit for a minimum of eight to ten weeks. This chilling period is a prerequisite for flower bud formation inside the bulb. After the rest period is complete, initiate the next bloom cycle by bringing the pot back into a warm, bright room and watering it thoroughly once.