The large, trumpet-shaped blooms of the Amaryllis (Hippeastrum genus) are a dramatic sight, especially during the winter months. Many people treat this tropical bulb as a disposable annual, discarding it once the flowers fade. With proper care, however, the plant can rebloom for many years. Post-bloom care focuses entirely on ensuring the bulb stores enough energy to develop new flower buds for the next season. Successfully encouraging another spectacular display requires managing the plant’s natural annual cycle of growth, dormancy, and reawakening.
Immediate Post-Bloom Care
The first step after the flowers wilt is to clean up the plant to redirect its energy away from seed production. Each spent flower should be removed (deadheading) to prevent the formation of seed pods, which drain resources from the bulb. Removing the entire flower head allows the plant to focus on rebuilding its energy reserves.
The hollow flower stalk, or scape, should not be cut immediately after the flowers drop. The green stalk continues to supply the bulb with food until it naturally yellows and softens. Once the stalk has turned yellow or brown, cut it cleanly, about one to two inches above the neck of the bulb. Preserve the long, strap-like green leaves, as they are the plant’s primary energy factories for the entire growing season.
Maximizing Energy During the Summer Growth Period
After the flowers are gone, the plant enters its critical phase where the leaves must replenish the bulb’s reserves. The bulb needs active growth and feeding throughout the spring and summer to store enough carbohydrates for next year’s flower stalk. Adequate light exposure is necessary, so move the plant to a location receiving bright, indirect sunlight, such as a south-facing window.
Once the danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F, the Amaryllis benefits from being moved outdoors. An ideal spot on a patio or deck receives morning sun and afternoon shade to prevent leaf scorching. If sinking the pot into a garden bed, ensure the pot remains intact, as the bulb’s brittle roots should be left undisturbed.
A regular schedule of watering and feeding must be maintained throughout this active growing period. Keep the soil consistently moist, but never soggy, watering thoroughly when the top inch or two feels dry. This is the only time the plant should receive fertilizer, using a balanced, water-soluble formula (e.g., 10-10-10). Applying fertilizer every two to four weeks supports robust leaf growth, leading to a stronger bulb capable of reblooming.
Preparing the Bulb for Dormancy
The long period of summer growth must be followed by a planned resting phase to initiate new flower bud development. Around late summer or early fall (three to four months before the desired bloom), intentionally alter the plant’s care to signal dormancy. The first step is to completely cease all fertilizer applications to halt new growth.
Next, gradually reduce and then stop the watering schedule entirely; this cues the bulb to begin its rest. The leaves will naturally yellow, wither, and die back after nourishing the bulb. Allow this process to happen naturally, letting the bulb reclaim nutrients from the foliage. Once the leaves are completely brown and dry, trim them off, leaving a short stub one or two inches above the bulb’s neck.
The potted bulb, now without foliage, is ready to be moved to a cool, dark, and dry location for its required rest. This dormant period is necessary to prepare the bulb for future flowering.
Triggering Reblooming Success
The dormant bulb requires a specific chilling period to set the next season’s flower buds. The ideal storage location is a basement, garage, or closet where the temperature remains consistently cool, ideally between 50 and 55°F. Temperature and dryness are the most important factors for successful dormancy.
The bulb must remain in these cool conditions for a minimum of eight to 12 weeks to complete the chilling process. Do not water the bulb during this time, as cool temperatures combined with moisture can easily lead to rot. This rest period mimics the plant’s natural environmental cues that trigger the next bloom.
After the chilling requirement is met, the bulb can be brought out of dormancy to begin the new annual cycle. Move the pot to a warmer spot (70 to 75°F) and place it in a bright location. Reintroduce light watering to barely moisten the soil, and resume a regular watering schedule once new growth is visible. A new flower stalk typically emerges first, followed by leaves, with blooms appearing about four to six weeks after reawakening.