Aloe vera is a popular and resilient indoor succulent, chosen for its striking rosette structure and the soothing gel stored within its fleshy leaves. Native to arid and semi-tropical climates, its care requirements differ fundamentally from typical leafy houseplants. Successfully growing aloe indoors relies on replicating the dry, bright conditions of its desert origins to prevent common houseplant issues.
Establishing the Right Environment
The most important factor for a thriving aloe vera plant is adequate light exposure. Aloe requires bright, indirect sunlight for at least six hours daily to maintain its compact, robust form. Placing the plant near a south- or west-facing window is often the best placement, though the light should be filtered to prevent damage.
Direct, intense midday sun can scorch the leaves, causing them to turn reddish-brown and develop dry, scarred patches. Conversely, insufficient light encourages etiolation, where the plant stretches out, resulting in weak, pale, and “leggy” growth. Aloe plants prefer standard indoor temperatures, ideally staying between 55° and 85°F (13° and 29°C).
Foundation: Soil and Potting
Aloe demands a growing medium that promotes rapid water movement and aeration. Standard commercial potting soil is unacceptable because it retains moisture, which is the opposite of what an arid succulent needs. Using a pre-mixed cactus or succulent potting blend is highly recommended, as these mixes often contain sand, perlite, or pumice to ensure fast drainage.
If a pre-made mix is unavailable, you can create a suitable substrate by amending regular potting soil with materials like coarse sand or perlite at a ratio of up to 50 percent. The container must have drainage holes at the bottom, as standing water is the primary cause of root rot. Unglazed terracotta pots are often favored because their porous material wicks away excess moisture from the soil, helping the roots dry out more quickly.
Proper Watering Techniques
Overwatering is the single biggest threat to an indoor aloe vera plant because its leaves store significant water reserves. The correct approach is the “soak and dry” method, which involves thoroughly saturating the soil and then allowing it to dry out almost completely before watering again. You should insert a finger or moisture meter two to three inches deep into the soil; only if it feels completely dry should you water.
During the active growing season of spring and summer, this usually translates to watering every two to three weeks, depending on environmental factors. As daylight hours shorten in the fall and winter, the plant enters a period of dormancy, significantly slowing its water uptake. During this time, the watering frequency must be reduced by 30 to 50 percent, often meaning only one watering per month or even less.
Physical signs indicate improper watering: overwatered aloe leaves become yellow, mushy, and translucent, while underwatered leaves appear thin, shriveled, and wrinkled as the plant uses its stored water. When watering, soak the soil until water runs freely from the drainage holes, then immediately discard any excess water collected in the saucer. Never allow the roots to sit in standing water.
Long-Term Maintenance and Troubleshooting
Aloe vera plants should be repotted every one to two years, or when the plant becomes visibly top-heavy or the roots begin to circle the pot. Repotting is best done during the spring or summer growing season, and the new pot should only be one size larger than the previous one to prevent the soil from holding too much moisture. This is also the ideal time to separate “pups,” which are small offsets that grow around the base of the mother plant.
To propagate pups, gently remove the offset from the parent plant, ensuring it has some roots attached. Allow the cut end to form a protective callus for a day or two before potting it in its own small container of succulent mix. Aloe plants are light feeders and only require fertilization during the spring and summer; a balanced houseplant fertilizer diluted to half-strength can be applied no more than once a month.
The most common pests for indoor aloe are mealybugs and scale insects, which appear as white, cottony masses or small, brown bumps on the leaves. These pests can be treated by dabbing them directly with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol, which dissolves their protective coating. If small, dark-winged insects known as fungal gnats are present, it is a clear sign that the soil is being kept too wet.