The persimmon tree, known for its glossy foliage, attractive winter silhouette, and late-season fruit, is a rewarding addition to a home orchard. These trees are generally resilient, but providing the correct environment and consistent care ensures a heavy, high-quality harvest. Understanding the specific needs of the persimmon tree at each stage of its life, from planting to picking, is the foundation for success.
Site Selection and Planting
Full sun exposure is recommended, requiring at least eight hours of direct sunlight daily to encourage robust growth and optimal fruit development. While the tree can tolerate partial shade, insufficient sun may lead to reduced yields and poor ripening of the fruit.
Persimmon trees thrive in deep, well-drained soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH, ideally between 6.0 and 6.5. Although they tolerate heavy clay soils, proper drainage is necessary to prevent waterlogging, which can damage the roots. When planting, dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the root ball but only as deep, ensuring the tree sits at the same level it did in its nursery pot.
After backfilling, water thoroughly to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets. Apply a four-to-six-inch layer of organic mulch around the base of the tree to retain soil moisture and regulate temperature. Keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture accumulation and potential bark rot.
Routine Watering and Fertilization
Consistent, deep watering is most important during the tree’s first few years of establishment and during dry periods. Newly planted trees benefit from a deep soaking once or twice a week, depending on the soil type. The goal is to moisten the root zone deeply, encouraging the roots to grow downward rather than remaining near the surface.
Established, mature trees are moderately drought-tolerant but will produce significantly larger, higher-quality fruit if they receive regular moisture, particularly as the fruit develops in the summer. A mature tree generally requires the equivalent of 36 to 48 inches of annual rainfall, so supplemental watering during prolonged dry spells is beneficial. Overwatering, however, should be avoided, as persimmon trees do not tolerate perpetually saturated roots.
Persimmons typically require minimal fertilization once established, and excess nutrients, especially nitrogen, can cause premature fruit drop. Avoid fertilizing the tree at planting, as young roots are sensitive to fertilizer salts. Only apply fertilizer if the tree’s annual shoot growth is less than a foot or if the mature leaves appear pale green.
When fertilization is necessary, apply a balanced blend, such as a 10-10-10 formula, in late winter or early spring just before new growth begins. Bearing trees should receive a low-nitrogen fertilizer to maintain vigor without promoting excessive vegetative growth at the expense of fruit. Spread the fertilizer evenly beneath the tree’s canopy, extending out to the drip line.
Pruning for Health and Yield
Pruning is primarily done to develop a strong structural framework and to maintain an open canopy that allows sunlight and air to reach all parts of the tree. The best time for major structural pruning is during the late winter or very early spring when the tree is fully dormant. The wood of the persimmon tree can be somewhat brittle, making it important to train young trees to have wide-angled scaffold branches that can support heavy fruit loads.
Young trees are often trained to a modified central leader system, which establishes several strong, well-spaced lateral branches around a central trunk. Maintenance pruning on mature trees involves the removal of the “three D’s”: dead, diseased, or damaged wood. You should also remove any branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other, as this creates wounds that can invite pests and disease.
Because persimmons bear fruit on both new growth and one-year-old wood, extensive heading cuts—which involve cutting back the tips of branches—should be minimized. Instead, focus on thinning cuts, which remove entire branches back to the main trunk or a lateral branch. This technique opens the interior of the canopy for better light penetration and air circulation, which helps reduce the risk of fungal issues.
Harvesting Your Persimmons
Knowing the correct harvest time depends entirely on whether your tree produces astringent or non-astringent fruit. Astringent varieties, such as ‘Hachiya,’ contain high levels of tannins when firm and must be allowed to fully ripen until they are soft and almost jelly-like before they are palatable. These fruits are typically harvested when they have reached full color but are still firm to prevent loss to birds and minimize bruising.
Non-astringent varieties, like ‘Fuyu,’ can be eaten while they are still firm, crisp, and fully colored, similar to an apple. For both types, the fruit should be harvested by using clean pruning shears or scissors to clip the stem, leaving the calyx—the green cap—attached to the fruit. This method avoids tearing the fruit’s skin, which can prolong its shelf life.
If astringent persimmons are picked firm, they must be allowed to soften at room temperature before eating. This process can be accelerated by placing the fruit in a paper bag with an ethylene-producing fruit, such as an apple or banana, which speeds up the breakdown of the bitter tannins.