A live Christmas tree, typically sold with its root ball contained in a pot or burlap, is intended for replanting after the holiday season. Caring for this type of tree requires a fundamentally different approach than tending to a traditional cut tree. The primary objective is to maintain the tree’s health and dormancy during its brief stay indoors to ensure a successful transition back outside. Achieving this requires careful management of temperature, light, and moisture.
Bringing the Tree Indoors: Acclimation and Placement
Moving a cold-hardy conifer directly into a warm house can induce temperature shock and prematurely break the tree’s winter dormancy. To prevent this, the tree should undergo a gradual acclimation period in an intermediate space, such as an unheated garage or a cool porch. This transition zone should be kept at a temperature between 35°F and 45°F and should last for two to three days before the tree is moved into the main living area.
Once inside, the tree must be situated in the coolest possible location, ideally away from direct sources of heat like radiators, fireplaces, or forced-air vents. Direct sunlight through a window should also be avoided to prevent overheating. Limiting the indoor display time is the most important rule, with an ideal duration of seven to ten days and an absolute maximum of twelve days. This short window prevents the tree from sensing the warmth long enough to break its natural winter dormancy cycle.
Essential Care While Displayed
Maintaining consistent moisture in the root ball is the primary daily care task while the tree is indoors. The soil should remain consistently damp, similar to a wrung-out sponge, but never saturated or waterlogged, which can quickly lead to root rot. Dormant conifers still require water because the warm, dry indoor air draws moisture from the needles through transpiration.
Due to the density and weight of the root ball, checking moisture levels requires inserting a finger or a moisture meter several inches deep into the soil. A good technique for saturation is to place the pot or burlap into a large, waterproof saucer and slowly add water until it begins to seep into the container. After approximately 30 minutes, any standing water that has not been absorbed must be carefully removed to ensure the roots are not sitting in an anaerobic environment.
If the home’s heating system produces especially dry air, periodically misting the needles with a spray bottle can temporarily increase local humidity and reduce moisture loss. Care must also be taken when decorating to avoid placing heavy ornaments or lights that compress or break the delicate terminal buds at the end of the branches. These buds contain the growth points for the following season and are easily damaged, impacting the tree’s future shape and growth.
Post-Holiday Transition and Planting
Once the indoor display time limit has been reached, the tree needs a reverse acclimation process to adjust to the cold again. Moving the tree abruptly from a warm house to freezing outdoor temperatures can result in severe temperature shock and damage the vascular system. This de-acclimation involves returning the tree to the same cool, protected transition zone, such as an unheated garage, for three to seven days.
Preparing the planting site must ideally be done well before the ground freezes solid to avoid delays. The hole should be dug two to three times wider than the root ball but only as deep as the root ball is tall, ensuring the tree will sit level with the surrounding soil. If the ground is already frozen, the tree must be stored in a sheltered, cool location, like an insulated shed, until the soil thaws enough for planting in early spring.
When planting, the burlap and any wire cage surrounding the root ball must be completely removed, as these materials can constrict root growth and prevent water absorption. While some natural burlap may decompose, it is safer to cut it away entirely, especially if it appears to be treated or synthetic. The tree should be positioned so the top of the root flare—where the trunk widens at the base—is slightly above the surrounding grade to allow for settling and proper drainage.
Backfill the hole with the original soil, gently tamping it to eliminate large air pockets without compacting the soil excessively. After filling, create a small ring of soil around the perimeter of the hole to act as a watering basin and thoroughly saturate the area. Applying a thick layer of organic mulch around the base, keeping it several inches away from the trunk, helps regulate soil temperature and retain moisture as the tree establishes itself.