The term “indoor lily plant” most often refers to the Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum), a popular houseplant prized for its deep green foliage and distinctive white flower-like structures called spathes. These tropical, evergreen plants are native to the forest floors of Central and South America, which informs their specific care requirements. While other bulb-based varieties are brought indoors temporarily, the Spathiphyllum is the variety most commonly grown long-term. Successful cultivation requires replicating the warm, sheltered conditions of its natural habitat to encourage sustained growth and flowering.
Setting the Right Environment
The first consideration for a healthy indoor lily is placement, which dictates the light, temperature, and humidity it receives. Peace Lilies thrive in bright, indirect light, mimicking the dappled sunlight they receive beneath a forest canopy. An ideal spot is near an east-facing window for gentle morning sun, or a north-facing window for consistent, lower-intensity light. Direct, harsh sunlight can scorch the leaves, causing them to turn yellow or brown.
Temperature control is important, as these plants are sensitive to cold. They prefer average room temperatures ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the plant away from cold drafts or heat sources like radiators or air conditioning vents, which cause rapid temperature fluctuations.
As a tropical plant, the Peace Lily prefers a humid atmosphere. Increase localized humidity by placing the pot on a saucer filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot is not touching the water. This allows evaporation to moisten the air around the foliage. Occasional misting provides temporary relief.
Routine Care and Feeding
Consistent moisture in the soil is fundamental, but the plant must never sit in standing water, which causes root rot. Check the soil by inserting a finger about one inch deep; if it feels dry, the plant needs water. When watering, thoroughly soak the soil until water drains out of the drainage holes, then discard any excess water collected in the saucer after thirty minutes.
Peace Lilies often signal thirst dramatically by wilting when the soil is too dry. They recover quickly after watering, but frequent wilting stresses the plant and may result in brown leaf edges. Using filtered, distilled, or rainwater is preferred over tap water. Chemicals like fluoride and chlorine in municipal water can accumulate in the soil and cause brown tips on the leaves.
Fertilization should be approached conservatively, as Peace Lilies are not heavy feeders and are sensitive to chemical buildup. During the active growing seasons of spring and summer, dilute a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer (e.g., 20-20-20 ratio) to one-quarter or half the recommended strength. Applying this dilute mixture once a month is sufficient to support foliage and flower production. No fertilizer is needed during the fall and winter months when growth slows.
Managing the Plant Lifecycle
Long-term care involves managing physical growth, including removing spent blooms and annual maintenance like repotting. When a flower (spathe) fades and turns green or brown, it should be removed, a process known as deadheading. Snip the flower stalk off at the base of the plant using clean scissors or shears. Removing spent stalks directs the plant’s energy toward producing new foliage and flowers.
Any leaves that turn entirely yellow or brown should also be trimmed off at the base of the stem to maintain appearance and focus resources on healthy growth. Over time, the plant may become root-bound, signaling a need for a larger container. Signs of being root-bound include roots protruding from drainage holes or the plant needing water much more frequently.
Repotting is best done in the spring, using a container only one or two inches larger than the previous one. Peace Lilies bloom better when slightly constrained, so oversizing the pot is discouraged. Use a well-draining, all-purpose potting mix, ensuring the new pot has adequate drainage holes to prevent water retention.
Addressing Common Problems
Indoor lilies may display symptoms indicating minor issues, with leaf discoloration being the most common sign of distress. Brown leaf tips or edges are caused by low humidity or the buildup of mineral salts from tap water or over-fertilization. Remedy this by increasing air moisture and using purified water for irrigation.
Yellowing leaves often point to an imbalance in watering, typically overwatering, which starves the roots of oxygen and can cause root rot. If the soil is dry, yellowing may indicate underwatering or the plant shedding older leaves to support new growth. Pests such as mealybugs, spider mites, and scale occasionally target indoor lilies.
If pests are detected, simple treatment is sufficient. Wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust and small populations. For established issues, apply insecticidal soap or neem oil to coat the leaves. Consistent observation allows for early intervention.