A lavender “tree” is not a true botanical tree but a lavender shrub trained and pruned into a standard or topiary form. This shape features a single, woody stem topped with a dense, rounded head of foliage and flowers. Maintaining this structure requires more focused attention than a traditional lavender bush to preserve its formal appearance and fragrant bloom. A well-cared-for lavender standard serves as a beautiful, aromatic focal point in any garden or container display.
Establishing the Lavender in the Landscape
Lavender, originating from the Mediterranean region, requires a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sun daily to thrive and produce its signature scent. Insufficient light leads to sparse growth and fewer flowers, compromising the dense, rounded shape of the crown. Impeccable drainage is the most important factor for planting, as the plant will quickly succumb to root rot in consistently wet soil.
If planting in the ground, heavy clay soil must be amended significantly with coarse grit or sand, or the plant should be placed in a raised bed or on a mound. Ensure the root ball’s crown remains level with or slightly above the surrounding soil, never burying the base of the stem. Standard forms are often less hardy than ground-level shrubs, so those in colder climates (below USDA Zone 7) are generally better suited for container planting to allow for winter relocation.
Essential Routine Maintenance
Once established, lavender is drought-tolerant and requires minimal supplemental water. Overwatering is the primary cause of failure, as a saturated root zone causes the roots to quickly rot. New transplants need regular watering for their first season to establish a robust root system, typically once or twice a week until the top few inches of soil dry out. Established plants in the ground rarely need watering unless there are extended periods of severe drought.
Plants grown in containers require more frequent watering because the soil dries out faster, especially during warm weather. Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings, checking the top two to three inches before applying water deeply until it drains from the bottom. Lavender prefers poor, low-fertility soil and generally does not need fertilization. Applying high-nitrogen fertilizers is counterproductive, as it encourages excessive leafy growth at the expense of fragrant blooms.
Pruning and Shaping the Standard
Pruning is essential for maintaining the lavender standard’s shape and longevity. The goal is to encourage dense, new growth in the crown while preventing interior branches from becoming woody and bare. The primary structural pruning should occur immediately after the main flush of flowers fades, usually in mid-to-late summer. During this time, remove all spent flower stalks and cut the foliage back by approximately one-third.
The cuts must be made into the soft, leafy growth, consistently avoiding the old, leafless, woody part of the stem. Lavender does not reliably produce new shoots from old wood, so cutting too low can create dead patches that ruin the symmetrical look. A lighter, secondary trim can be performed in early spring to remove any winter damage and refine the spherical shape before new growth begins. Throughout the growing season, deadheading spent blooms (removing only the flower stalk) will encourage a potential second flush of flowers and maintain a tidy appearance.
Regularly check the main trunk to ensure the support stake remains securely fastened to prevent wind damage or breakage at the graft point. The perpetual pruning of the crown helps keep the head compact and balanced, preventing it from becoming too heavy and straining the slender main stem. Consistent annual trimming ensures the crown remains vigorous and prevents the plant from reverting to a sprawling, natural shrub form.
Protecting the Lavender During Winter
Winter care focuses on protecting the plant from cold and moisture, which is important for less cold-hardy French and Spanish lavender varieties. If the standard is in a container, move it to a sheltered, unheated location, such as a cool garage or shed, before the first hard frost. The ideal overwintering environment should remain cool, ideally between 40°F and 50°F, and stay dry.
Watering should be reduced significantly during dormancy, only providing a small amount when the soil is completely dry to prevent desiccation. For hardy English lavender standards planted in the ground, protection involves insulating the root zone and shielding the crown from harsh wind. Apply a two to three-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, around the base, keeping the material pulled back a few inches from the trunk to prevent rot.