The plants commonly referred to as “Christmas Plants” are the Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) and the Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera). Both are tropical plants that thrive indoors with specialized care. While they share a holiday association, their native environments differ—the Poinsettia is a shrub from Mexico, and the Christmas Cactus is a forest epiphyte from Brazil. Keeping these plants healthy and vibrant all year requires understanding and adapting to their seasonal needs, often by manipulating their environment.
Essential Survival Care for Poinsettias and Christmas Cacti
Maintaining a stable environment is the most important factor for both plants immediately after they arrive home. Poinsettias are sensitive to cold; brief exposure below 50°F (10°C) can cause chilling injury and leaf drop. The ideal daytime temperature for Poinsettias is 65°F to 75°F (18°C to 24°C), with slightly cooler nighttime temperatures around 60°F (15°C) to prolong the bract color. Christmas Cacti prefer a similar range of 60°F to 70°F (15°C to 21°C) during winter bloom, but must be shielded from cold drafts or direct heat vents that cause bud drop.
Both plants require bright, indirect sunlight to thrive during the short winter days. Placing them in a window with eastern, western, or southern exposure filtered by a sheer curtain is best. Direct, intense sun can scorch the leaves and colored bracts. Insufficient light will cause the Poinsettia’s lower leaves to yellow and drop, while the Christmas Cactus may fail to retain its buds.
The greatest threat to a holiday plant’s survival is improper watering, especially overwatering. Before watering either plant, remove any decorative foil or sleeves to ensure proper drainage and prevent the pot from sitting in standing water. Poinsettias prefer moderately moist soil but should be watered only when the top inch feels dry to the touch, preventing root rot. The tropical Christmas Cactus requires slightly more moisture; water it when the top third of the soil is dry, allowing all excess water to drain completely.
Long-Term Maintenance and Growth
The period immediately following the bloom season marks the start of the plant’s active growth phase, requiring a shift in care. For the Poinsettia, this transition begins in early spring, around March or April, when the colored bracts fade. The stems should be pruned back drastically, cutting them down to four to six inches above the soil surface to encourage a bushy, compact shape. The Christmas Cactus should be pruned right after flowering by removing one to two segments from the end of each stem to promote branching.
Repotting is necessary only every few years, but spring pruning is the ideal time if the plant is root-bound. Poinsettias benefit from a slightly larger pot filled with a rich, organic potting mix that retains good drainage. The Christmas Cactus prefers to be somewhat pot-bound and should be repotted into a container only one size larger, using a well-aerated, coarse succulent or sandy mix.
Active fertilization should begin once new growth appears in the spring and continue through the summer. Poinsettias should be fed a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer every two weeks at half-strength during this period. The Christmas Cactus also benefits from a balanced fertilizer applied monthly or bi-weekly during its spring and summer growing season. Both plants can be moved outdoors to a protected, partially shaded location once all danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures remain above 55°F (12°C).
How to Get Your Plant to Bloom Again
Encouraging a Christmas Plant to rebloom involves controlled environmental manipulation based on photoperiodism. Both the Poinsettia and the Christmas Cactus are “short-day” plants, requiring an extended period of uninterrupted darkness each night to set buds and initiate flowering. Even a small amount of light during this dark period can disrupt the process and prevent blooming.
The Poinsettia requires the most rigorous schedule, beginning in late September or early October. To trigger the formation of new colored bracts, the plant needs a strict 14 to 16 hours of complete darkness every night. During the day, it must receive eight to ten hours of bright, indirect light. This cycle must be maintained strictly for eight to ten weeks until the bracts begin to show color.
The Christmas Cactus also needs a period of reduced light, requiring 12 to 14 hours of continuous darkness nightly for six to eight weeks to initiate bud development. A key difference is the temperature requirement; to successfully set flower buds, the plant needs a cooler environment, ideally with night temperatures between 50°F and 65°F (10°C and 18°C). If buds fail to form, the most common causes are light leaks during the darkness period or inconsistent temperature and drafts.