A secure, well-constructed fence is the most effective physical barrier against garden pests. Building a durable enclosure requires careful planning to address the specific threats posed by local wildlife. The project centers on creating a structure that not only stands tall but also secures the vulnerable ground interface. The effectiveness of the final structure depends on tailoring its design to the unique behaviors of the animals you need to exclude.
Planning Based on Target Animal
The required height and material of your fence must be determined by the most capable animal in your area that seeks to enter the garden. For instance, adult white-tailed deer are capable of jumping over seven feet when motivated by a food source. Therefore, a fence height of at least eight feet is the standard recommendation to prevent them from clearing the barrier entirely. In areas with heavy deer pressure, using two parallel, shorter fences spaced a few feet apart can also create an optical illusion that deters them from attempting the jump.
Lower-to-the-ground pests like rabbits, woodchucks, and raccoons require a focus on subterranean defense. These expert burrowers will easily dig under a fence that stops at ground level. To counter this, the fencing material must extend at least 6 to 12 inches below the soil line. The most effective method is to create an L-footer, which involves bending the buried mesh outward, away from the garden, at a 90-degree angle for another 6 to 12 inches.
For smaller rodents such as squirrels and chipmunks, the primary concern is the size of the mesh openings and their climbing ability. While a one-inch mesh may deter most squirrels, complete exclusion requires galvanized hardware cloth with openings no larger than 1/4 inch. If these animals are the main target, the small-gauge hardware cloth should be buried like the L-footer to prevent digging. Additionally, you may need a specialized top treatment, such as an outward-tilting section of wire or metal flashing, to prevent them from climbing over the top edge.
Necessary Tools and Materials
A successful fence build begins with gathering the correct inventory of supplies, starting with the structural components. For vertical support, you will need either treated lumber posts for a permanent structure or metal T-posts for easier, high-tension installation. The length of these posts must account for the required height above ground plus a minimum of one-third of the total post length to be set below ground for stability.
The primary barrier material will be heavy-gauge welded wire or specialized deer netting, selected based on the mesh size needed for your target animal. Securing the fence requires specific fasteners, such as heavy-duty fence staples for wooden posts, or wire ties and hog rings for metal posts and tensioning wire.
You will also need gate hardware, including a sturdy frame kit, hinges, and a reliable latch. The latch must be secured tightly to the ground to maintain the integrity of the barrier.
The necessary tools include a post-hole digger or auger for setting wooden posts and a post driver or sledgehammer for installing T-posts. For layout and measurement, you will need:
- A measuring tape, level, and string line for ensuring straight lines and consistent post spacing.
- Heavy-duty wire cutters to manage and shape the fencing material, especially the smaller-gauge hardware cloth used for the L-footer.
Construction and Installation Steps
The construction process must begin with a precise layout of the fence perimeter to ensure a straight and structurally sound enclosure. Use a string line stretched taut between corner stakes to mark the exact path of the fence line. Post locations should be marked next, with spacing typically ranging from 8 to 12 feet, which provides adequate support for tensioning the mesh material.
The stability of the entire fence depends on properly setting the posts, especially at the corners and gates where the greatest tension is applied. Dig holes to the required depth (usually one-third of the total post height) and set the posts plumb using a level. Backfill the holes with soil, gravel, or fast-setting concrete mix. For metal T-posts, drive them directly into the ground using a specialized post driver until the necessary height remains above the soil line.
With the posts secured, the next step is to prepare the ground barrier, which is accomplished by digging a shallow trench along the entire perimeter line. This trench should be 6 to 12 inches deep to accommodate the buried portion of the fence material. Unroll the fencing material and secure the top section to the posts, leaving the bottom section unattached so it can be laid into the trench.
The L-footer is created by bending the bottom 6 to 12 inches of the wire mesh outward at a right angle before placing it into the trench. Ensure the horizontal section points away from the garden. This wire skirt acts as a deterrent, meeting any animal that attempts to dig down along the fence line. Once positioned, backfill the trench with soil and firmly tamp it down to lock the barrier in place.
Finally, secure the fence mesh to the posts using the appropriate fasteners, starting at the top edge and working downward. Ensure the material is pulled consistently taut to prevent sagging. The gate must be constructed with a rigid frame and installed so its bottom edge sits flush with the ground, or slightly overlaps the L-footer material. This detail ensures the access point is not the weakest link, completing the secure perimeter against climbing and burrowing pests.