Many tropical, subtropical, or non-hardy perennial plants cannot tolerate the freezing temperatures of winter. Bringing these plants indoors is necessary for their survival, allowing them to enter a period of dormancy or reduced growth until spring returns. This transition from the dynamic environment of the garden to the stable conditions of the home is a significant shock to the plant’s system. Successfully moving plants inside requires careful preparation to ensure the plant remains healthy and to prevent the introduction of outdoor pests.
Timing the Move and Initial Pruning
The most appropriate time to move outdoor plants inside is before nighttime temperatures consistently fall below 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 13 degrees Celsius). Moving them before the first hard frost prevents cold damage, which can weaken the plant and make it susceptible to disease.
Before the move, physical preparation of the container and plant structure is necessary. Remove any fallen leaves, weeds, or debris from the soil surface, as this material can harbor insects or fungal spores. Scrub the exterior of the pot thoroughly with a brush and soapy water to dislodge algae, dirt, and any insects clinging to the outside surface.
Prune back any dead, damaged, or overly elongated stems to manage the plant’s size for its new indoor location. Reducing the overall foliage mass also decreases the surface area where potential pests can hide. This initial cleaning and reduction in size sets the stage for mandatory pest eradication.
Mandatory Pest Eradication Steps
Bringing outdoor plants inside almost guarantees introducing pests unless specific eradication steps are followed. A comprehensive inspection is the first line of defense, requiring close examination of leaf undersides, stem joints, and soil surfaces for common invaders like aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies. Spider mites often leave fine webbing near the growing tips that is easily missed.
Targeted treatment must occur before placing the plant near any existing indoor flora. Begin by thoroughly hosing down the entire plant with a strong but gentle stream of water to physically dislodge as many pests as possible from the leaves and stems. Ensure the water stream is directed at the undersides of the leaves where many insects prefer to hide and feed.
Following the wash, apply a non-toxic treatment such as insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, like Neem oil, ensuring full coverage of all plant surfaces. These products work by smothering soft-bodied insects, requiring direct contact to be effective. Repeat the application after four to seven days to target any newly hatched pests that survived the initial treatment cycle.
Addressing the soil is equally important, as fungus gnats and their larvae live in the potting mix. Drenching the soil with a solution of insecticidal soap or diluted Neem oil can help eliminate larvae near the surface. Finally, place the treated plant in a quarantine location, ideally a separate room, for seven to fourteen days to monitor for any surviving or newly emerging pests before integrating it with other houseplants.
Acclimating Plants to Indoor Conditions
After pest eradication, the next challenge is managing the environmental shock of moving from high outdoor light and fluctuating temperatures to stable, lower indoor conditions. Plants must adjust their physiology to the reduced light intensity. If possible, move the plant to a shaded outdoor location for several days before bringing it fully inside, allowing it to begin adjusting to lower light levels gradually.
Once indoors, placement is paramount to minimize stress. Most sun-loving outdoor plants require the brightest available indoor light, often meaning a south-facing window or direct placement under a dedicated grow light system. The light intensity inside a home is significantly lower than direct sunlight, which can trigger leaf drop or etiolation (the stretching of stems).
Maintain a stable ambient temperature, typically between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (15 to 24 degrees Celsius), which is suitable for most tropical plants. Avoid placing the plant near heat registers, radiators, or fireplaces, as the intense, dry heat can scorch foliage and desiccate the soil rapidly. Likewise, cold drafts from exterior doors or poorly insulated windows can cause leaf damage and temperature shock. Providing this optimal transition environment allows the plant to adjust its metabolism and prepare for the reduced growth period.
Adjusting Routine for Winter Survival
Once acclimated, the long-term survival of the plant hinges on significantly adjusting its care routine to match its slower winter metabolism. Reduced light and cooler temperatures mean the plant’s need for water decreases dramatically, as transpiration and active growth slow down. Overwatering is the most common cause of indoor plant death during the winter.
Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry out completely before watering thoroughly, ensuring the pot drains fully to prevent root rot. Simultaneously, all fertilization should cease entirely. Providing nutrients during a period of reduced growth can lead to root burn and salt buildup in the soil. Resume feeding only when active growth resumes in the spring.
While water uptake decreases, indoor heating systems often create extremely dry air, which can stress tropical plants and encourage spider mites. Increase local humidity using a pebble tray filled with water beneath the pot, ensuring the pot itself is not sitting directly in the water. A small humidifier placed nearby can also supplement the air moisture. Periodically rotating the plant ensures all sides receive adequate light, preventing uneven growth and helping the plant maintain a compact shape.