Succulents store water in their leaves, stems, or roots, an adaptation for surviving in arid environments. This means they require a different watering approach compared to common houseplants. There is no standard, fixed watering schedule that works for all succulents. The correct frequency is dynamic, depending on factors like the season, light, and the container. The goal is to understand the proper technique and respond to the plant’s surrounding conditions.
Mastering the Soak and Dry Method
The proper way to hydrate a succulent is through the “soak and dry” method, which prioritizes deep saturation over shallow, frequent watering. Apply water directly to the soil until it runs freely out of the pot’s drainage hole, ensuring the entire root system is exposed to moisture. Allowing the water to escape completely is important, as succulents are susceptible to root rot if their roots sit in standing water.
After the initial deep soak, the soil must be allowed to dry out completely before the next watering session. The soil should feel bone-dry several inches down. This desiccation encourages the roots to grow outward in search of moisture, promoting a healthier growth habit. Avoid frequent, light watering, as it only moistens the topsoil, keeping upper roots wet while deeper roots stay dehydrated.
The presence of a drainage hole is non-negotiable for the soak and dry method. Without proper drainage, excess water has nowhere to go. Use a fast-draining soil mix, typically a blend of organic matter and inorganic grit like perlite or pumice, to allow water to pass through quickly and prevent waterlogged roots.
How Season and Environment Impact Watering Schedules
Watering frequency is altered by the plant’s natural growth cycle and environment. Succulents generally have an active growing season (spring and summer) and a dormancy period (fall and winter). During the active phase, the plant uses more water for development, so watering may be needed more often, perhaps every 10 to 14 days, once the soil has dried.
When a succulent enters dormancy, its metabolic rate slows down, requiring far less moisture. In cooler, darker winter months, water may only be necessary every three to four weeks. Temperature and light levels correlate directly with water loss, as higher light exposure and heat accelerate evaporation from the soil.
The pot material plays a significant role in how quickly the soil dries out. Porous materials like unglazed terracotta allow water to evaporate from the surface, causing the soil to dry faster. Pots made of plastic or glazed ceramic retain moisture longer, meaning a plant in a glazed pot needs less frequent watering than one in terracotta.
Diagnosing Signs of Overwatering and Underwatering
Observing the leaves provides the most reliable sign of watering distress, allowing for necessary routine adjustments. Overwatering is the most common cause of succulent death, presenting as soft, mushy, or translucent leaves. These leaves may also turn yellow and fall off easily, indicating that plant cells have burst from excessive water uptake.
In advanced stages of overwatering, the stem or base may begin to blacken, a sign of irreversible rot spreading through the tissues. If rot is detected, it is often too late to save the plant. By contrast, underwatering causes leaves to appear shriveled, wrinkled, or deflated.
This wrinkled appearance signals that the plant is drawing on its stored water reserves, causing the leaves to shrink. While underwatering is easier to correct than overwatering, a deep soak will allow the leaves to plump back up. Underwatered leaves may feel soft, but they will not be mushy or translucent.