The Cyclamen is a distinctive tuberous perennial plant prized for its colorful, upswept blossoms and marbled, heart-shaped foliage. It is a popular househouseplant because it naturally flowers during the cooler months when other plants are dormant. A cyclamen typically blooms once per year, often lasting for several months and providing vibrant color through the winter season. Understanding the plant’s natural life cycle is key to extending its display and encouraging it to flourish again the following year.
The Cyclamen Bloom Cycle
The active growing and flowering phase for the florist’s cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) generally begins in the late fall and continues through the early spring. Under proper indoor conditions, a single plant can maintain its flowering display for a substantial duration, often lasting eight to twelve weeks. This extended period of color is dependent on mimicking the plant’s native cool, moist Mediterranean winter environment.
Maintaining cool temperatures (50°F to 65°F) significantly influences the bloom cycle’s longevity. Warmer environments, especially those above 70°F, can prematurely trigger the plant to enter its resting phase, shortening the overall bloom time. Careful removal of spent flowers, known as deadheading, helps sustain the display by redirecting energy toward developing new buds. Remove the entire spent flower stem by twisting it off cleanly right at the base near the tuber.
Consistent, moderate watering is important throughout this active period, but must be done carefully to prevent the central tuber from rotting. The best practice involves watering from the bottom by placing the pot in a saucer of water for 20 to 30 minutes, allowing the soil to wick up moisture. Once the topsoil feels barely moist, any excess water must be drained away to prevent the tuber from sitting in stagnant water.
Understanding Dormancy
Following the intensive energy expenditure of the bloom cycle, the cyclamen requires a mandatory rest period known as dormancy, necessary for its survival and future flowering. This phase typically begins in late spring, around April or May, and extends through the hot summer months. It is not dying; instead, it is conserving energy in its thick, underground tuber to survive the naturally hot, dry summer conditions of its native habitat.
Dormancy is indicated by the yellowing and wilting of leaves and the cessation of new growth. As the foliage begins to fade, it is important to gradually reduce the frequency of watering until it is stopped completely once all the leaves have turned yellow. The plant draws the remaining nutrients from the dying leaves back into the tuber, so the foliage should be allowed to wither naturally before it is trimmed away.
During the dormant period, the pot containing the tuber should be moved to a cool, dry, and dark location where temperatures remain around 50°F to 60°F. A basement or a cool garage is often a suitable spot for this rest phase. The tuber should be kept dry but not completely desiccated, so a small, occasional sip of water every few weeks can prevent the tuber from shriveling.
Triggering the Next Bloom
Re-blooming begins by bringing the cyclamen out of its summer rest period in the late summer or early fall (August or September). First, check the tuber for signs of new growth, such as small, pink shoots or tiny green leaves emerging from the top. If the plant has been dormant for several months and shows no sign of waking, a complete repotting into fresh, well-draining soil may be beneficial, ensuring the top third of the tuber remains exposed above the soil line.
To stimulate the return to active growth, a gradual resumption of the watering routine is necessary, starting with light watering around the pot’s edge. Once new foliage begins to develop consistently, the plant can be moved to a location that receives bright, indirect light. This is also the time to begin a regular feeding schedule using a balanced, water-soluble liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength, applied every two to three weeks.
The most important environmental factor for triggering flower bud formation is the temperature differential between day and night. Cyclamen requires cool nighttime temperatures, ideally sustained around 50°F, combined with slightly warmer daytime temperatures between 60°F and 65°F. Providing these cooler temperatures and increased light in the early fall will encourage the tuber to begin producing flower stalks, leading to a new bloom cycle in the late fall or early winter.