The Aloe vera plant is a resilient succulent known for its therapeutic gel and ability to thrive in dry conditions. Originating from arid regions, this plant stores large amounts of water within its thick, fleshy leaves. Standard houseplant watering schedules, which involve frequent, light waterings, are unsuitable for the aloe. The most frequent error in caring for this plant is providing too much water, which causes far more issues than too little.
Determining When to Water
The key to successfully watering an Aloe vera is embracing the “soak and dry” method, which mimics the plant’s natural environment of infrequent, heavy rainfall followed by long dry spells. Never water your aloe on a fixed calendar schedule; instead, base watering on the soil’s moisture level. The entire volume of soil in the pot must be allowed to dry out completely before watering again.
To check the soil’s dryness, insert a finger about two inches deep into the potting mix, or use a moisture meter. If any moisture is detected at this depth, wait several more days before checking again. Allowing the soil to dry fully prevents the roots from sitting in perpetually damp conditions, which quickly leads to fungal issues.
Seasonal changes significantly affect watering frequency because the plant’s water usage fluctuates. During the active growing seasons of spring and summer, the plant uses water more quickly, requiring water every two to three weeks. Conversely, during the winter months, the plant enters dormancy, and water requirements decrease drastically, often requiring water only once a month or less.
Mastering the Watering Technique
The method of applying water is as important as the timing, focusing on a thorough soaking while ensuring rapid drainage. Use a fast-draining soil mix, such as a specialized cactus or succulent blend, which contains materials like perlite or coarse sand to prevent water retention. Using regular potting soil holds too much moisture and significantly increases the risk of root rot.
When the soil is completely dry, water the plant slowly and deeply until the water flows freely out of the drainage holes. This deep soaking ensures the entire root ball is saturated, encouraging a strong, deep root system. The container must have drainage holes, as this is non-negotiable for preventing waterlogging.
After watering, allow the plant to drain completely in a sink or tray for about 15 to 20 minutes. Empty the saucer or cachepot immediately afterward to ensure the roots are not left sitting in standing water. Avoid overhead watering that allows water to collect in the rosette—the central cup where the leaves meet—as this trapped moisture can cause the plant tissue to rot.
Recognizing Signs of Too Much or Too Little Water
Identifying visual cues is the final step in maintaining a healthy watering routine. Overwatering, the most common cause of decline, manifests as leaves that are soft, mushy, or translucent, especially near the base. The leaves may also turn pale yellow or brown, indicating that cells are bloated with excess water, which quickly leads to root rot.
If root rot has set in due to constant moisture, the leaves will droop, and the normally firm tissue will feel squishy. The plant may also exhibit blistered spots where cells have burst from the internal pressure of excess water. This soft, sickly appearance signals that the soil has remained wet for too long.
Signs of underwatering are less common but are easy to recognize through the leaves’ texture and shape. When dehydrated, the leaves appear thin, shriveled, and wrinkled, often curling inward. The plant draws on its stored water reserves during dry periods, causing the normally plump leaves to look deflated and brittle. These symptoms indicate the plant has utilized its reserves and needs a deep soak.