Succulents are plants adapted to arid environments, storing water in specialized tissues within their leaves, stems, or roots. This adaptation allows them to survive long periods of drought, making them popular houseplants. However, their unique biology means their care requirements differ vastly from traditional foliage plants. Improper watering, usually too much moisture, is the most frequent reason these plants fail in cultivation. Understanding proper hydration is the most important step in ensuring a succulent’s long-term health.
Determining When to Water
The fundamental rule for succulent care is to wait until the soil is completely dry before watering again. Never follow a rigid schedule, such as watering every two weeks, because the rate of soil drying varies based on temperature, light, humidity, and pot material. The environment determines the frequency, making a physical check of the soil necessary every time.
A simple and effective method for checking soil dryness is the finger test, where you insert your finger about an inch or two into the potting mix. If you feel any trace of moisture, you must wait longer before watering. For deeper pots, you can use a wooden skewer or chopstick inserted all the way to the bottom; if it comes out clean and dry, it is likely safe to water.
Another reliable technique is comparing the weight of the potted succulent when fully saturated versus when the soil is dry. A pot with completely dry soil feels noticeably lighter than one holding moisture. Relying on these indicators ensures the plant has fully utilized its previous water supply, which encourages the development of a strong, healthy root system.
The Proper Watering Technique
When the soil has fully dried out, the correct approach is the “soak and dry” method, which mimics the heavy, infrequent rains these plants experience in their native habitats. This technique requires you to water deeply and thoroughly until the soil is completely saturated. You should continue pouring water until you see it freely flowing out of the pot’s drainage hole.
A drainage hole is necessary for this method, allowing excess water to escape and preventing the roots from sitting in soggy conditions. Shallow watering or misting the surface is detrimental because it only encourages weak, shallow roots near the soil line. These surface roots cannot sustain the plant through dry periods and make the succulent susceptible to rot.
Once the thorough watering is complete, you must ensure the pot is not left sitting in the drained water. After about 15 to 30 minutes, you should empty the saucer or cachepot completely. Allowing the plant to reabsorb this standing water can lead to a state of constant moisture around the roots, which is the primary cause of fatal root rot.
Seasonal Adjustments and Dormancy
Succulents have a fluctuating metabolic rate that shifts with the seasons, requiring adjustments to the watering routine. Most common varieties are summer growers, actively growing in the spring and summer when light and temperature are higher. During this active period, plants use water more quickly, and watering frequency will be at its highest.
In contrast, most succulents enter dormancy during the fall and winter due to shorter days and cooler temperatures. This survival mechanism significantly slows the plant’s growth, and its need for water dramatically decreases. During this dormant phase, drastically reduce watering frequency, often to once a month or less, to avoid waterlogging the soil.
Watering a dormant succulent with the same frequency as a growing one leads to rot, as the plant is not actively taking up moisture. Always err on the side of caution during the cooler, darker months. The goal is to provide just enough moisture to prevent the roots from desiccating, not to encourage growth.
Recognizing Watering Stress
The leaves of your succulent provide clear visual cues that indicate whether its hydration levels are appropriate. If a plant is suffering from underwatering, its leaves will begin to appear deflated, shriveled, or wrinkled. This is the plant drawing on its internal water reserves, which causes its plump, firm foliage to collapse slightly.
Conversely, overwatering presents symptoms that are often more severe and difficult to recover from. Leaves that are soft, mushy, translucent, or yellowing signal cellular damage from excess moisture. This typically starts with the lower leaves and signals the onset of root rot, a condition where saturated soil lacks oxygen and causes the roots to decay. If the stem or leaves turn black or brown and feel soft, the rot is advanced.