The waxy substance known as ambergris, often called “floating gold,” is one of the world’s most expensive natural commodities. This rare material carries a fragrance that has been prized for centuries. Though often inaccurately referred to as “whale vomit,” ambergris is actually a biological excretion of the sperm whale that undergoes a unique transformation in the marine environment.
The True Origin of Ambergris
Ambergris is a solid, waxy substance produced in the intestines of a small percentage of sperm whales (Physeter macrocephalus). The whale’s digestive system forms this mass to protect its internal lining from the sharp, indigestible beaks of the squid and cuttlefish that make up a large part of its diet. This mass is a byproduct of the digestive process, not a substance that the whale throws up.
The material is naturally expelled from the whale’s body and then begins a long process of curing in the ocean. Freshly expelled ambergris is soft, black, and possesses a strong, unpleasant fecal odor. It is through exposure to saltwater, air, and sunlight over years or even decades that the mass oxidizes and hardens, transforming into the prized, sweet-smelling substance.
Unique Properties That Drive Demand
The high value of ambergris stems from its complex chemical makeup and its function within the perfume industry. Its defining component is ambrein, a triterpene alcohol that makes up 25 to 45% of the material. Ambrein itself has only a mild scent, but its breakdown products, like ambroxide and ambrinol, are responsible for the desirable, unique fragrance.
This scent is often described as sweet, earthy, musky, and marine-like, with notes of tobacco or sandalwood. Perfumers use ambergris primarily as a fixative, a substance that stabilizes and extends the life of other fragrance compounds. By slowing the evaporation rate of delicate perfume notes, ambergris makes the scent last significantly longer on the skin.
Historically, the substance has been used in various cultures beyond perfumery, including as incense, medicine, and even a culinary spice. Today, however, its most important application remains in the creation of high-end and luxury fragrance products.
Factors Determining the Price Per Pound
The price of ambergris is highly variable and depends almost entirely on its age, color, and texture, following a well-established grading system. Generally, the longer a piece has cured in the ocean, the more valuable it becomes. Older pieces tend to be lighter in color, harder, and have a more refined, pleasant aroma.
The highest grade is often described as pure white or light grey, which is hard and has the most delicate fragrance, fetching the highest market price. Conversely, soft, black ambergris is the lowest grade, as it is the freshest and retains a less desirable, raw odor. Quality ambergris can command an average wholesale price of around $10,000 per pound, or approximately $23 per gram.
Finder’s prices, the amount paid to the person who initially discovers the material, typically fall between $7 and $17 per gram, averaging about $6,000 per pound, depending on the quality assessment. A single, high-quality, large piece could be valued in the hundreds of thousands of dollars, but prices fluctuate based on demand and the legal status of the trade in the region.
Global Trade Laws and Synthetic Replacements
The trade of ambergris is complicated by international and national conservation laws, which significantly affect its market. In the United States, the possession and sale of ambergris are prohibited under the Endangered Species Act of 1973, reflecting the protected status of the sperm whale. Australia and India also have laws banning its commercial trade.
However, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) views naturally excreted ambergris as a waste product, meaning it is not strictly regulated by the convention itself. This distinction allows the trade to be legal in certain countries, including New Zealand and the United Kingdom, provided the material was found naturally washed ashore. These varying legal restrictions create a fragmented global market, where the legality of a sale depends on the specific country.
Due to the extreme rarity and the legal challenges of sourcing natural ambergris, the fragrance industry has largely turned to synthetic alternatives. The most widely used replacement is a compound called Ambroxan, which is an oxidized derivative of ambrein. Ambroxan effectively replicates the desirable fixative properties and the sweet, musky notes of natural ambergris, providing a sustainable and ethical alternative for most modern perfumes.