Chicken manure is a concentrated source of nutrients that benefits garden soil, but it must be processed before use. It is known as “hot” manure because its high nitrogen and ammonia content can burn plant roots if applied fresh. Raw droppings may also contain pathogens such as E. coli or Salmonella, making composting necessary for safety and effectiveness. The time it takes to become usable compost is highly variable, ranging from a few weeks to over a year, depending on management.
Preparing the Manure for Composting
The initial step involves creating a balanced mix of materials. Chicken manure is high in nitrogen, making it a “green” material with a carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio often ranging from 10:1 to 13:1. To promote efficient decomposition, the mixture must achieve an overall C:N ratio closer to the ideal range of 25:1 to 30:1.
This nitrogen imbalance is corrected by adding “brown” carbon sources. These materials include wood shavings, straw, dried leaves, or shredded paper, providing the necessary carbon structure for microbes. Insufficient carbon results in nitrogen converting rapidly into ammonia gas, causing an unpleasant odor and reducing the nutrient value.
Bedding material from the coop, such as pine shavings or straw, often provides initial carbon and should be included. A guideline to achieve balance is combining two parts carbon-rich brown material for every one part nitrogen-rich manure. Getting this mixture right accelerates composting and prevents excessive nitrogen loss.
Key Factors Determining Composting Speed
The timeline is not fixed and is influenced by active management of temperature, moisture, and aeration. Under highly managed, or “hot,” composting, the material can become usable in two to four months. Conversely, a passive, or “cold,” approach where the pile is rarely turned may take nine to twelve months to mature.
Maintaining high temperatures is important for both speed and safety. Decomposition involves a thermophilic phase, where the internal temperature must reach and sustain at least 131°F (55°C). This heat, generated by microbial activity, destroys pathogens like Salmonella and eliminates weed seeds.
The compost pile must be kept consistently moist, ideally having the wetness of a wrung-out sponge (50 to 60 percent moisture content). If the pile is too dry, microbial activity slows, extending the timeline. If it is too wet, oxygen is excluded, leading to slow, smelly, anaerobic decomposition.
Aeration is maintained by turning the compost pile regularly, which introduces oxygen and helps regulate temperature. During the initial high-heat phase, turning the pile every few days or weekly is necessary to maintain thermophilic temperatures and speed up decomposition. When the temperature drops below 110°F, turning the pile helps it reheat, ensuring all material is exposed to the heat for breakdown and pathogen elimination.
Indicators of Finished Compost
The composting process is complete when the material has undergone transformations that make it safe and beneficial for the garden. The most visible sign is a change in appearance and texture; the final product should be dark, crumbly, and uniform, with no recognizable pieces of original manure or bedding remaining.
The smell shifts from the pungent ammonia odor of fresh manure to a pleasant, earthy, and sweet aroma. A mature compost will not smell like ammonia, confirming that the nitrogen has stabilized and is no longer being lost as gas. The temperature is a reliable indicator; the compost is finished when it no longer heats up after being turned and remains at ambient temperature.
Once active decomposition is over, the compost enters a curing phase, a period of stabilization. The C:N ratio naturally decreases to between 10:1 and 20:1 during this stage. Using the compost before it is fully matured, or “cured,” risks plant damage from residual high nutrient concentrations and surviving pathogens.