Chrysanthemums, affectionately known as mums, are cherished for their vibrant colors and long vase life or their hardiness in the garden. Their longevity and health depend heavily on proper hydration practices. Water management differs significantly depending on whether the mum is a freshly cut stem or a potted plant intended for planting. Maximizing the lifespan of these popular flowers requires understanding the distinct soaking and watering needs for each application.
Initial Hydration for Cut Chrysanthemums
The first step after acquiring cut chrysanthemum stems is a process called conditioning. This deep soak is necessary because air bubbles may have entered the stem’s vascular system, blocking water uptake. The goal of this initial conditioning is to rapidly rehydrate the flower and clear any blockages for maximum water flow.
Begin by recutting the bottom inch or two of each stem at a sharp 45-degree angle using a clean, sharp knife or shears. This angled cut increases the surface area for water absorption and prevents the stem from resting flat on the bottom of the vessel. Immediately place the newly cut stems into a clean vessel filled with lukewarm water, ideally between 100°F and 110°F (38°C to 43°C), as warmer water moves more quickly through the stem.
Leave the chrysanthemums to soak in a deep vessel for a minimum of two to four hours, and preferably overnight, in a cool, dark location away from direct sun or heat. For severely wilted flowers, a longer overnight soak is recommended to fully restore hydration. This initial deep drink is the most effective action to extend the vase life of the flowers.
Soaking Mums Before Planting
When preparing potted chrysanthemums for transplantation, a pre-planting soak is necessary to ensure the root ball is thoroughly saturated. Nursery-grown plants often develop a condition where the potting mix becomes hydrophobic, meaning it repels water rather than absorbing it. If planted dry, the root ball will not absorb moisture from the surrounding soil, leading to rapid wilting and transplant shock.
The most effective method is to submerge the entire pot or the exposed root ball into a bucket of water. Leave the plant submerged until bubbles stop rising from the soil, which indicates that air pockets have been replaced with water. This process typically takes between 10 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the pot and the initial dryness of the soil.
Once the bubbling ceases, the root ball is fully saturated and the plant is ready for planting. This uniform moisture level encourages the roots to spread successfully into their new environment. Bare-root mums also require a soak for about 30 minutes before planting to hydrate the fine root hairs.
Maintaining Long-Term Water Quality and Levels
After the initial deep conditioning, the longevity of cut chrysanthemums depends on consistent water maintenance. The water in the vase should be changed completely every two to three days, or whenever it appears cloudy, to minimize the buildup of bacteria and fungi. Bacterial contamination is the primary cause of stem blockage, which restricts water uptake and leads to premature wilting.
With every water change, the stems should be recut by at least a half-inch at the 45-degree angle to create a fresh surface for absorption. Any foliage that falls below the waterline must be removed, as submerged leaves rapidly decompose and introduce bacteria into the water supply. Maintaining the water level high enough to cover the bottom three to five inches of the stem is adequate for continuous hydration.
Commercial flower food significantly extends the vase life by addressing three needs: providing sugar for energy, an acidifier to promote water uptake, and a biocide to inhibit microorganism growth. A simple homemade alternative involves a mixture of water, a small amount of sugar, and a few drops of bleach to act as the biocide.