Peony bare roots, or root divisions, are the dormant storage organs of the peony plant, typically shipped in the autumn for planting. These fleshy roots contain energy reserves and small pink or white growth buds, often called “eyes,” that will develop into the stems and flowers of the following season. Temporary storage is often necessary when roots arrive before a gardener is ready to plant due to factors like late delivery, frozen soil, or the need to amend a planting bed. Proper handling during this interim period is important to ensure the root remains viable and ready to establish itself. Maintaining the root’s dormant state and preserving its moisture and energy reserves is essential for the plant’s success.
Preparing Peony Roots for Temporary Storage
Before placing the root into storage, inspect it carefully for any signs of damage or decay. If you notice soft spots, blemishes, or mold, gently trim away the affected tissue using a clean, sharp blade. Allowing the cut surface to dry slightly before storage reduces the risk of fungal spread.
To retain moisture without promoting rot, the roots should be lightly wrapped in a breathable medium. Materials such as slightly damp peat moss, sawdust, or shredded paper work well, buffering against desiccation while allowing air circulation. The medium must be barely moist, not wet. Avoid sealing the roots tightly in non-porous plastic, which traps excess humidity and invites mold growth. Placing the wrapped roots in a paper bag or a loosely closed plastic bag helps maintain a micro-environment that slows moisture loss.
Optimal Conditions for Extended Storage
The primary goal of extended storage is to keep the peony root in a state of deep dormancy, controlled by maintaining consistently low temperatures. An ideal environment requires a temperature range between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit (2–7 degrees Celsius); this chilling range prevents the root from breaking dormancy and prematurely producing weak sprouts.
A refrigerator’s vegetable crisper drawer is often the most practical location for achieving these cold temperatures in a home setting. Humidity control is equally important; the storage area should maintain moisture high enough to prevent shriveling, yet low enough to discourage fungal or bacterial development. While the roots need cold, they must be protected from freezing temperatures, which can damage the cells and compromise viability. A consistent, dark, and cool location, like an unheated basement or root cellar, can also work, provided the temperature remains stable within the recommended range.
Determining Maximum Storage Limits
The duration a peony root can be successfully stored depends heavily on the consistency of the environmental conditions. For short-term delays of one to two weeks, simply keeping the root in its original packaging in a cool, dark location is sufficient. Under optimal, consistent cold storage conditions (35–40°F), bare roots can often be held for four to six weeks, or even longer, potentially over an entire winter.
You must regularly inspect the stored roots for signs that the environment is failing. The most common issues are dehydration and rot. Dehydration appears as shriveled, wrinkled roots that have lost their plump, firm texture. Conversely, fungal or bacterial rot is indicated by soft, mushy spots, a foul or unpleasant smell, or the presence of visible white or gray mold.
If a root begins to shrivel, it suggests the storage medium is too dry, and it should be planted immediately or rehydrated. If you find signs of rot, the affected tissue must be immediately cut away, and the remaining healthy root should be replanted or transferred to a drier, better-ventilated storage location. A healthy stored root should remain firm, feeling dense and substantial to the touch, with the eyes still looking pinkish-white and intact.
Handling Roots After Storage
Once the storage period is complete, the roots must be transitioned properly for planting. If the roots appear slightly shriveled, rehydration is beneficial. This involves soaking the entire root in cool or lukewarm water for 30 minutes to a few hours before planting, which helps restore moisture content lost during dormancy.
Check the eyes one last time to ensure they are firm and undamaged, as these buds must be oriented upward when planted. The root should be placed in the soil so that the eyes are no more than two inches below the surface, as planting too deeply can inhibit flowering. Following planting, water the area thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots and initiate the establishment process.