Bare root strawberries are dormant plants shipped without soil, making them an economical way to start a new patch. Harvested while inactive, these plants are highly perishable because their roots are exposed and require immediate attention upon arrival to ensure viability. Understanding the precise timeline for planting and proper temporary storage techniques is crucial for success. This guide outlines the time limits and necessary actions to transition your dormant plants successfully into the garden.
Determining the Maximum Storage Duration
The ideal time to plant bare root strawberries is immediately upon receiving them, preferably within one to two days. Planting right away prevents the roots from drying out and minimizes the risk of the plant breaking dormancy prematurely. The longer dormant plants remain out of the soil, the more their stored energy reserves are depleted, reducing their vigor and survival rate.
Bare root strawberries can be stored for a maximum of one to two weeks under perfect conditions. Achieving this extended timeline requires a consistently cool environment to maintain the plant’s dormant state. Temperatures just above freezing slow the plant’s metabolic processes without allowing the roots to freeze solid. Relying on this maximum storage duration carries a significant risk of declining viability.
Maximum storage time may stretch to two weeks, but this requires precise management of temperature and humidity. Warmer temperatures cause the plant to exit dormancy, and failure to maintain adequate moisture results in irreversible desiccation. Gardeners should aim for the shortest possible storage period for the best long-term health and fruit production.
Essential Storage and Preservation Methods
The most reliable method for short-term preservation is cold storage, utilizing a refrigerator kept between 32°F and 40°F (0°C to 4°C). This cool, dark environment mimics natural winter conditions, keeping the plants dormant. Keep the roots moist but not overly saturated to prevent the development of mold or rot.
The plants are best kept in their original packaging, often a plastic bag lined with damp peat moss or shredded paper. If the original bag is not perforated, open it slightly or place it in a perforated bag to allow for minimal air exchange. Placing a dry paper towel in the bag can absorb condensation and mitigate excess moisture. Storing the bag in the crisper drawer helps maintain high humidity and protects the roots from temperature fluctuations.
Heeling In for Medium-Term Storage
For a medium-term delay beyond one week, “heeling in” offers a temporary solution. This method involves digging a trench in a cool, shady spot outdoors and temporarily burying the roots. The trench should be deep enough to accommodate the entire root mass. Cover the roots with loose material like soil, sawdust, or compost.
Heeling in protects the roots from air exposure and maintains the necessary moisture level, acting as a temporary holding bed. The location must remain cool, and the roots must be kept moist but never waterlogged. This method allows the plants to remain dormant until the permanent planting site is ready.
Preparing Roots for Successful Planting
Once planting day arrives, the dormant roots must be rehydrated before being placed in the soil. Soak the entire root system in a bucket of cool or hand-warm water for 30 minutes to two hours. This soaking allows plant tissues to draw in moisture, reversing minor desiccation that occurred during storage or shipping.
It is beneficial to inspect and trim the roots prior to planting. Bare root strawberries sometimes arrive with excessively long or broken roots. Trimming the roots back by up to one-third, or to a manageable length of about six inches, encourages the plant to produce new, fibrous root growth once planted. This trimming also prevents “J-rooting,” where overly long roots curl upward in the planting hole, which inhibits proper establishment.
The most critical step during planting is ensuring the correct placement of the crown, the central growth point of the plant. The crown must be positioned exactly at the soil level. If buried too deep, the crown can rot; if planted too shallowly, the exposed roots will dry out. After placing the plant, fan out the roots and gently firm the soil around them to eliminate air pockets and ensure good contact.
How to Identify Damaged or Unviable Plants
Diagnosing the health of bare root strawberries involves inspecting the roots and the crown. A healthy, viable plant has a root system that is light in color, often tan or straw-colored, and the roots should feel pliable and flexible. The crown itself should appear firm and solid, showing no signs of shriveling or softness.
Signs of improper storage or decay are readily apparent. Dryness is indicated by roots that are brittle, snap easily, or appear desiccated and dark brown. Conversely, excessive moisture leads to rot, which presents as dark, mushy, or slimy sections on the roots or crown.
The presence of mold or fungus, often a white or gray fuzzy growth, indicates poor storage conditions, specifically high humidity combined with insufficient air circulation. If the central crown is soft, shriveled, or easily crumbles, the plant’s ability to generate new growth is severely compromised. Plants exhibiting extensive signs of rot or decay should not be planted.