How Long Can You Keep Bare Root Plants Before Planting?

Bare root plants are dormant woody or perennial plants harvested and sold without soil around their roots. This method results in lighter weight and lower cost, making them an economical choice for gardeners. Plants are typically dug up while deeply dormant, usually in late fall or early spring, before new growth begins. However, the exposed fine root hairs are highly susceptible to desiccation, or drying out, which can quickly lead to plant death. The absence of a protective soil ball means planting must happen immediately after receipt.

The Critical Time Frame

The viability of a bare root plant rapidly declines the moment its roots are exposed to air. The golden rule is to plant them as soon as possible after receipt, ideally within 24 to 48 hours. This narrow window exists because exposed roots lack the insulation and moisture buffer provided by soil. Desiccation is the most significant factor, as fine root hairs responsible for water and nutrient uptake can be killed by dry air quickly.

Warm temperatures drastically shorten this critical time frame because heat encourages the plant to break dormancy. Increased metabolic activity demands moisture that the exposed roots cannot supply. Keeping the plants cool is therefore as important as keeping the roots moist to prevent premature bud break. If planting must be delayed beyond a couple of days, specific storage measures are necessary to maintain the plant’s dormant state.

Short-Term Storage Methods

For short delays of up to one week, the primary goal is to keep the roots cool, dark, and consistently moist without being waterlogged. The ideal temperature range for temporary storage is slightly above freezing, typically between 34 and 38 degrees Fahrenheit, to keep the plant dormant. An unheated garage, shed, or a refrigerator can serve as appropriate storage locations, providing cool, dark conditions and protection from wind and sunlight.

To maintain moisture, the roots should be packed in a damp medium, such as peat moss, wood shavings, or shredded newspaper. The material should feel moist but not dripping, as standing water can suffocate the roots and promote mold growth. Once packed, the roots should be wrapped completely in a sealed plastic bag or sheeting to prevent moisture loss. Check the roots every couple of days and re-dampen the packing material if it begins to feel dry, ensuring the seal is maintained.

Extending Storage Through Heeling In

When planting must be delayed for more than a week, or if the ground is still frozen, the semi-permanent method called “heeling in” is necessary. Heeling in involves temporarily burying the plant’s roots in a material to keep them cool and moist, simulating being planted in the ground. This technique can successfully keep plants dormant for up to a month or until suitable planting weather arrives.

To heel in plants, select a sheltered, shaded, and well-drained location to avoid root rot. Dig a V-shaped trench wide and deep enough to accommodate the entire root system without bending the roots. Lay the plants into the trench at a sharp angle and cover the roots completely with loose soil, sand, sawdust, or mulch, ensuring no air pockets remain. The stem or trunk should remain exposed above the soil line to prevent rotting. Water the area gently to settle the material and monitor the moisture level until the plant can be moved.

Preparing Bare Roots for Planting

A final preparation step is necessary just before the plant is set into its permanent location. Root hydration restores moisture levels lost during storage and transport. The roots should be soaked in a bucket of cool water for 2 to 12 hours, though some sources suggest up to 24 hours for deeply dehydrated stock. Avoid soaking for more than a day, as prolonged submersion can drown the roots.

While the roots are hydrating, inspect them for damage. Use clean, sharp pruning shears to remove any broken, diseased, or excessively long roots, cutting back to healthy, white tissue. Making a fresh, clean cut on damaged roots stimulates new, vigorous growth once planted. This final inspection and hydration process significantly reduces transplant shock and maximizes the plant’s chance of establishment success.