A bare-root tree is a deciduous plant dug up from the nursery field while completely dormant, meaning it has no leaves or active growth. The soil is purposefully washed away from the root system for shipping and handling, which significantly reduces costs and allows for easier root inspection. However, removing the protective soil layer creates an immediate urgency for the tree’s survival, as the delicate root hairs are highly susceptible to drying out.
The Critical Survival Window
The survival clock begins ticking the moment the roots are exposed to air, leading to rapid desiccation. If roots are left uncovered and exposed to wind or sun, the tree may only survive for a few hours before permanent damage occurs. Moisture is the primary factor determining the survival window, as fine root structures have no soil to buffer against water loss.
The typical maximum survival time for a bare-root tree, if kept in its original, sealed packaging, ranges from a few days to approximately one week. For longer-term survival, the tree must be maintained in a state of deep dormancy, which is controlled by temperature and humidity. Storing trees in conditions that are too warm will cause them to break dormancy early, demanding resources the compromised root system cannot yet supply.
Maintaining a consistently low temperature, ideally between 34 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, significantly extends the survival window to several weeks or even a few months. This cold storage mimics the natural conditions of winter, keeping the tree’s metabolic rate extremely low. Preventing the roots from drying out is equally important, requiring humidity levels near 85 to 95 percent to retain the stored moisture within the root tissues.
Species type also influences resilience; some trees are naturally more sensitive to root disturbance and desiccation than others. Regardless of the species, exposure to warm temperatures or direct sunlight accelerates the loss of energy reserves and water, shortening the viable window. The goal is always to plant the tree into its permanent location while it remains fully dormant, minimizing the time spent in temporary storage.
Essential Short-Term Storage Methods
When immediate planting is not possible due to frozen ground, heavy rain, or logistical delays, two reliable methods exist to maintain the tree’s dormancy and moisture levels. The first method, known as “heeling in,” provides a temporary, outdoor burial solution that can sustain the tree for several weeks until conditions improve. This technique involves digging a temporary, shallow trench in a shaded, well-draining area of the garden.
The bare roots are placed into the trench at an angle, and the surrounding soil or mulch is used to completely cover the roots and lower trunk. Ensure the root collar, where the roots meet the trunk, is covered to prevent air exposure and gently firm the soil to remove air pockets. The covering material, which can be native soil, sand, or shredded wood mulch, must be kept consistently moist but not waterlogged.
The second method involves cold storage, suitable for shorter delays, typically a few days to a few weeks. The tree should be kept in its original packaging, or the roots can be packed in a moist material like peat moss, damp sawdust, or shredded paper. The packing material should feel like a wrung-out sponge, damp enough to provide moisture but not saturated enough to promote mold or root rot.
The tree is sealed in a plastic bag and stored in a cool, dark location, such as an unheated garage, basement, or cold cellar. The temperature should remain below 40°F to prevent the tree from breaking dormancy. Regular checks are necessary to confirm the packing material remains moist and that no mold or excessive condensation is developing inside the plastic wrapping.
Assessing Viability and Recognizing Damage
Before planting a bare-root tree that has been in storage, perform a health check to ensure its viability. The first step is a root inspection, which involves examining the color and texture of the root system. Healthy roots should appear pliable and moist, often exhibiting a light tan or whitish color, particularly at the actively growing tips.
Damaged roots will look brittle, dried out, or black and mushy if they have suffered from desiccation or prolonged waterlogging. Any discolored, broken, or moldy root parts should be carefully pruned away with clean shears before planting to encourage new, healthy growth. If the roots feel dry, a pre-planting soak in a bucket of water for four to six hours can help rehydrate the tissues.
The second diagnostic procedure is the scratch test, which assesses the health of the cambium layer, the living tissue beneath the outer bark. Using a fingernail or a small, sharp knife, gently scrape a tiny patch of bark from a small branch or the trunk. Bright green tissue immediately beneath the scraped surface indicates the tree is alive and viable.
If the exposed tissue is brown, dry, or gray, that section of the tree is likely dead. You should continue to perform the scratch test further down the branch or trunk until you find green tissue, or until you reach the root collar. If the trunk shows no green tissue, it suggests the tree has died, as the cambium is responsible for transporting water and nutrients throughout the plant.