Rabbits can quickly decimate young plants and consume produce, frustrating gardeners and homeowners. A physical barrier provides the most effective solution against this persistent problem. Constructing a specialized fence addresses the rabbit’s natural behaviors of jumping and burrowing, creating an exclusion zone that shields vulnerable areas.
Preventing Jumps: The Required Fence Height
The vertical height of an exclusion fence must account for the jumping ability of common rabbit species, such as the Eastern Cottontail. Rabbits are capable of clearing obstacles up to 3 feet high from a standstill, even though they typically only attempt full-height jumps when startled. To create a reliable deterrent, the fence fabric should extend a minimum of 3 feet above the soil line.
This height provides a sufficient margin of safety to discourage most casual attempts to hop over the barrier. In areas with larger species, such as the Black-tailed Jackrabbit, a height of 4 feet may be necessary. Also, consider the maximum expected snow accumulation in your region. The fence must maintain its minimum effective height above the snow’s surface throughout the winter to prevent rabbits from walking over snowdrifts.
Stopping Burrowing: Necessary Fence Depth
A fence relying only on vertical height is ineffective because rabbits are adept burrowers. To stop this behavior, the fencing material must continue below the soil line to create a subterranean shield. The material should be buried at least 6 to 12 inches deep to intercept common digging attempts.
This buried section is improved by utilizing an “L-bend” or apron technique. Instead of burying the wire vertically, the bottom 6 inches of the material should be bent outward, away from the protected area, at a 90-degree angle. When a rabbit attempts to dig down along the fence line, its paws will encounter this horizontal wire apron, which acts as an impenetrable floor. The apron should then be covered with soil and firmly tamped down to anchor it securely.
Choosing the Right Materials and Mesh Size
The composition of the fence material is as important as its dimensions, since small rabbits can squeeze through tight spaces. Standard poultry netting, often called chicken wire, is not recommended because its hexagonal weave and thin gauge can be easily breached. The preferred material is galvanized hardware cloth, a welded wire mesh that maintains a consistent, small opening size.
To exclude juvenile rabbits, which are often born in the spring, the mesh size must be 1 inch or smaller. An ideal size is 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch square mesh. This small dimension ensures that even the smallest rabbit cannot push its way through the barrier.
The wire gauge, which indicates the thickness of the wire, influences the fence’s integrity. A heavier gauge, such as 16-gauge, resists chewing damage and increases durability. Thinner wires, like 19-gauge, can be vulnerable to nibbling or damage from other animals. Choosing a galvanized or vinyl-coated wire ensures the material resists rust and corrosion, prolonging the life of the underground section of the barrier.
Finalizing the Installation: Gates and Maintenance
Any access point, such as a garden gate, represents a potential weak spot that must be sealed with the same attention to detail as the rest of the perimeter. A gate must be designed to close completely flush with the ground, leaving no gap at the bottom edge for a rabbit to slip through. The buried L-bend protection should extend directly beneath the gate opening to maintain the integrity of the subterranean defense.
This is achieved by installing a rigid, weather-resistant trim piece along the bottom of the gate that rests directly on the soil when closed. Once the fence is fully installed, routine maintenance is necessary for long-term effectiveness. The fence line should be inspected monthly, especially after heavy rain or freezing and thawing cycles. Promptly backfilling any exposed areas and repairing any damage to the mesh ensures the exclusion zone remains fully functional.