The Skip Laurel is a fast-growing broadleaf evergreen shrub prized for its glossy foliage and dense, upright growth habit. This cultivar is a popular choice for creating visual barriers due to its ability to form a solid green wall quickly. Achieving a successful screen or hedge relies heavily on correctly calculating the distance between plants at the time of installation.
Calculating Spacing for Hedges and Screens
For the fastest development of a solid, dense barrier, plants should be positioned relatively close, typically between two and three feet apart, measured from the center of one plant to the center of the next. Planting at two-foot intervals will result in a near-instantaneous hedge, while a three-foot spacing will take slightly longer to merge but will still form a thick screen within a few seasons. This close spacing ensures the branches intertwine early, forcing the plants to grow upward and outward into a continuous, opaque mass.
If the goal is a more relaxed, standard screen that requires fewer plants and allows for more natural growth, a wider spacing is appropriate. Planting the laurels five to six feet apart will allow each shrub to develop more individually before their canopies eventually touch and overlap. This approach saves on initial cost but demands more patience, as the visual gaps will take several years to completely close. The general mature width of the ‘Schipkaensis’ cultivar can range from five to eight feet, which informs these planting decisions.
When a Skip Laurel is intended as a standalone specimen, it should be given ample room to reach its full, unpruned potential. A single plant should be spaced at least eight to ten feet away from any other large shrub or tree to accommodate its mature spread. For nearby permanent structures, position the center of the planting hole at least three to four feet away to allow for mature width and future maintenance access.
Site Preparation and Correct Planting Depth
Skip Laurels thrive in conditions ranging from full sun to partial shade. They have a strong preference for moist, well-drained soil and will not tolerate standing water or consistently wet conditions. Poor drainage can lead to root problems, so areas with heavy clay soil may require amendment or be entirely unsuitable for planting.
When preparing the planting site, the key rule is to dig wide, not deep, to encourage healthy lateral root growth. The hole should be excavated to a width that is two to three times the diameter of the root ball, but the depth should not exceed the height of the root ball itself. This ensures that the plant does not settle too deeply after watering, which can suffocate the roots. Mixing a small amount of compost into the backfill soil can improve its structure, but avoid amending the entire hole with rich material, as this can discourage roots from growing into the surrounding native soil.
Correct planting depth is achieved by ensuring the root flare—the point where the trunk widens as it meets the roots—sits slightly above the surrounding grade. Planting the shrub in this manner prevents the stem from being buried, which is a common cause of crown rot and subsequent plant decline. After placing the laurel in the hole, backfill with the excavated soil, tamping gently to remove any large air pockets without compacting the soil excessively.
Essential Post-Planting Care and Pruning
Consistent watering is essential during the first year after planting to ensure successful establishment. New plants require deep, thorough watering immediately after installation to settle the soil and hydrate the roots. Over the subsequent months, the goal is to keep the root zone consistently moist but not saturated, which means deep, infrequent watering rather than light, daily sprinkling. It is advisable to use drip irrigation or water the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, as overhead watering can contribute to leaf spot diseases like shothole fungus.
Applying a three-inch layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or wood chips, helps to regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture. Mulch reduces water evaporation from the soil surface and suppresses competing weeds. Ensure the mulch ring extends out to the edge of the planting hole but is kept several inches away from the trunk of the Skip Laurel to prevent moisture buildup that could encourage pests or rot at the base.
Even young Skip Laurels planted for a hedge should be pruned lightly to stimulate the dense, lateral growth needed to fill the calculated spacing. This initial pruning, often done by snipping the tips of the main branches, encourages the shrub to branch out horizontally instead of simply growing taller. Maintenance pruning for shaping should occur after the spring bloom has finished, removing any errant branches to maintain the desired form. Fertilization is generally minimal. If the soil is poor, apply a balanced evergreen fertilizer in the spring and fall, but note that the laurel is intolerant of heavy fertilization.