The Cherry Laurel, Prunus laurocerasus, is a popular broadleaf evergreen shrub prized in landscaping for its glossy green foliage and ability to form dense screens. This fast-growing plant is widely used for creating year-round privacy and structure in gardens across temperate regions. However, the success of a Cherry Laurel planting, whether as a continuous hedge or an individual specimen, relies entirely upon choosing the correct initial planting distance. Proper spacing is necessary not only for achieving the desired aesthetic outcome but also for ensuring the long-term health of the shrub by optimizing air circulation and light exposure.
Understanding Mature Size and Growth Habit
Cherry Laurel is known for its relatively rapid growth rate, typically adding between one and two feet of new growth each year. This vigorous habit means that plants can quickly outgrow their initial location if their mature dimensions are not considered during planting. The species exhibits significant variation in size and form, which is largely dependent on the specific cultivar selected.
Standard varieties of Prunus laurocerasus can mature into large shrubs or small trees, potentially reaching heights of 15 to 30 feet with a similar spread. Compact cultivars like ‘Otto Luyken’ are considerably smaller, often staying around 3 to 4 feet tall but possessing a wide, spreading habit. Upright varieties such as ‘Schipkaensis’ grow taller and narrower, making them suitable for tighter spaces and formal screening.
Spacing decisions must prioritize the plant’s final width to avoid overcrowding as the shrubs mature. When plants are placed too closely together, they compete for light and nutrients, leading to reduced vigor. Crowded conditions also restrict air movement, creating a humid microclimate that increases the shrub’s susceptibility to common fungal diseases like shot-hole disease and powdery mildew.
Spacing Recommendations for Hedges and Screening
Planting distances for Cherry Laurel hedges are calculated based on the desired density and how quickly the barrier needs to form a continuous screen. For a dense, formal hedge that “knits” together quickly, the recommended spacing is typically between two and three feet (60 to 90 centimeters) center-to-center. Planting at the two-foot interval results in a faster-forming screen, while three feet allows for healthier mature plants with less competition.
Closer spacing of two feet is generally reserved for situations where an instant, impenetrable screen is the primary goal. Planting smaller cultivars, which naturally have a narrower spread, may also allow for slightly tighter spacing without compromising long-term health. For hedges intended to be tall, spacing closer to three feet is preferred, as it allows the root systems more space to support the increased height.
For a looser, more natural privacy screen, or when using larger cultivars, the spacing can be increased to four to six feet apart. This wider interval permits each shrub to develop a more individual, unpruned form while still allowing the mature branches to eventually overlap and create a visual barrier.
Double Staggered Rows
In scenarios requiring the densest screen, a double staggered row layout can be utilized. This involves planting two parallel rows, with the second row’s plants centered in the gaps of the first row. The rows themselves should be spaced 18 to 24 inches apart.
Spacing Recommendations for Standalone Specimens
When a Cherry Laurel is intended to function as an isolated, unpruned specimen shrub or a small ornamental tree, the planting distance must be significantly greater than for hedge applications. The goal is to allow the plant to reach its full, natural spread without interference from adjacent plants or structures. For most standard varieties, which can reach a mature width of 10 to 30 feet, the minimum required spacing is often eight to ten feet away from other large plantings.
Distance from Structures
Selecting a location for a standalone specimen requires factoring in the plant’s mature root spread as well as its canopy width. The competitive, fibrous root system should be given adequate distance from permanent structures like house foundations, retaining walls, or underground utilities. Planting at least 10 feet away from a structure is a practical measure, especially considering the potential for soil changes around active root systems.
Allowing the full mature width provides maximum exposure to light and facilitates unrestricted air movement. This open placement optimizes photosynthesis and reduces the likelihood of humidity-related diseases. Sufficient space also ensures that maintenance activities, such as pruning or inspecting the foliage, can be performed easily on all sides of the specimen.