The genus Lilium encompasses the true lilies, perennial flowering plants grown from scaly bulbs. Celebrated for their dramatic height, large blooms, and intense fragrance, lilies are popular garden additions across many climates. Success demands specific seasonal actions, from planting through winter dormancy, ensuring the flowers return reliably each year.
Choosing the Right Spot and Planting the Bulbs
Selecting the correct location is the first step in establishing a healthy lily, as they thrive best in full sun or light afternoon shade. Lilies prefer their roots to remain cool and moist, a condition often described as “feet in the shade and head in the sun.” This balance can be achieved by planting low-growing groundcovers around the base of the stems.
Well-drained soil is necessary because the fleshy lily bulbs are highly susceptible to rot in soggy conditions. Amending heavy clay soil with organic matter like compost or horticultural grit improves drainage and soil fertility. When planting, dig the hole deep enough to place the bulb at a depth of two to three times its height, typically six to nine inches of soil above the bulb.
Planting the bulb deeply encourages the development of stem roots, which provides stability for the tall, flowering stems. Space bulbs 8 to 12 inches apart to allow for adequate air circulation. Providing this optimal environment establishes the foundation for years of successful blooming.
Essential Care During the Growing Season
Once the lily stems emerge, routine care focuses on consistent moisture, nutrient supply, and physical support. Deep watering is preferred; aim to soak the soil to a depth of about six inches once or twice a week, depending on rainfall and heat. Maintaining steady moisture is important, but avoid overwatering, which could lead to bulb rot.
A layer of organic mulch, such as shredded bark or compost, helps keep the root zone cool, retains moisture, and suppresses weeds. Lilies are heavy feeders and benefit from a balanced fertilizer application, such as a 10-10-10 formulation, when new shoots appear in the spring. During active growth, a supplemental high-potassium liquid feed can be applied every two weeks to support robust flowering.
Avoid using fertilizers high in nitrogen, as this encourages lush foliage growth at the expense of flower production. Taller varieties, including Oriental and Trumpet hybrids, require staking to prevent heavy blooms from snapping the stem in wind or rain. Place a stake near the plant base early in the season to provide gentle support before the stem is fully developed.
Managing Lilies After Flowering and Through Winter
After the petals drop, deadheading redirects the plant’s energy. Remove spent flower heads by snapping or cutting the stem back to the first set of healthy leaves. This prevents the plant from expending energy on forming seeds, allowing it to focus on storing nutrients in the bulb for the next year’s bloom.
Resist the urge to cut the stems or leaves while they are still green. The foliage must be allowed to photosynthesize and feed the bulb until it naturally yellows and dies back in the fall. Premature removal of green leaves severely weakens the bulb and negatively impacts flowering the following season.
Once the foliage has turned brown, cut the dead stalks down to about two inches above the soil level to mark the bulb’s location. In colder regions (USDA zones 3 to 6), apply a four- to six-inch layer of insulating mulch, such as straw or pine needles, after the first hard frost. This protection prevents the ground from repeatedly freezing and thawing, which can cause the bulb to heave. Remove the winter mulch in the early spring as new shoots emerge.