Yukon Gold potatoes are a widely cultivated variety, prized for their buttery flavor and versatile texture. Successfully growing these yellow-fleshed tubers depends heavily on proper horticultural techniques. The depth at which the seed potato is initially placed sets the stage for the plant’s entire productive cycle. Understanding planting depth and subsequent maintenance is directly linked to maximizing both the yield and the quality of your harvest.
Preparing Seed Potatoes and Timing
Before planting, seed potatoes require preparation and the soil must reach the correct temperature. Larger seed tubers should be cut into pieces, ensuring each segment is roughly the size of a golf ball and contains at least one or two “eyes” (dormant growth buds). Allow these cut pieces to dry for one or two days before planting; this encourages a protective callus to form over the wound, helping prevent rot.
The timing of planting is determined by local climate and soil conditions. Potatoes are a cool-season crop, and the soil temperature should consistently remain above 45°F for successful growth. Planting typically occurs in early spring, often two to three weeks before the last expected frost, once the ground is workable. Some gardeners “chit” their potatoes by exposing the seed pieces to light, which encourages short sprouts to form and can lead to faster emergence.
Determining Initial Planting Depth
The initial planting depth for Yukon Gold potatoes is intentionally shallow to accommodate future growth. Dig a trench approximately 4 to 6 inches deep, then place the prepared seed pieces inside. Space the seed pieces 9 to 12 inches apart within the trench, with the eyes facing upward or placed randomly.
After positioning the seed potato, cover it with only about 3 inches of loose soil or compost, leaving a slight depression above the planting line. New potatoes develop above the original seed piece along the underground portion of the stem, known as the stolon, not from the seed piece itself. Adequate row spacing is necessary to allow for future mounding of soil, with 30 to 36 inches between rows being standard practice.
The Necessity of Hilling
The shallow initial planting depth makes hilling necessary for both tuber production and plant health. Hilling involves progressively mounding soil up around the potato plant’s stem as it grows. This action serves the dual purpose of protecting developing tubers from sunlight exposure and providing an extended subterranean area for new tubers to form.
Sunlight is damaging because it causes the skin to turn green, indicating the presence of solanine. Solanine is a naturally occurring glycoalkaloid that is toxic in large quantities and gives the potato a bitter taste. The first hilling should occur when plants reach 6 to 8 inches tall, pulling enough soil up to cover the lower stem while leaving the top foliage exposed.
The process should be repeated two to three weeks later, or whenever the plant has grown another 3 to 4 inches. Each successive layer of mounded soil (earth, straw, or aged compost) encourages the stem to produce more stolons, resulting in a higher number of potatoes per plant. By the end of the growing season, the original shallow trench will have been transformed into a substantial mound of soil surrounding the base of the plant.
When and How to Harvest
Yukon Gold potatoes are classified as a mid-early variety, reaching maturity approximately 80 to 100 days after planting. For smaller, tender “new potatoes,” a partial harvest can begin earlier, typically seven to eight weeks after planting. Carefully dig around the edges of the mound to remove a few small tubers without disturbing the main plant.
For a full harvest of mature, storage-ready potatoes, wait until the plant’s foliage naturally begins to turn yellow and die back completely. Once the foliage is dead, leave the potatoes in the ground for an additional week or two. This allows the skin to thicken and “cure” (suberization), which improves storage life and minimizes handling damage. The harvest requires careful excavation using a spading fork or shovel, starting a foot or two away from the main stem to avoid puncturing the tubers.