Cherry trees depend on proper planting technique for long-term health and productivity. Planting at an incorrect depth is a common mistake that disrupts the precise balance of oxygen and moisture required by the root system. If the trunk is buried too deep beneath the soil surface, the tree’s health will suffer.
Preparing the Planting Site
The initial step is preparing a generous space for the roots to expand. The planting hole should be dug two to three times wider than the root ball diameter. This width loosens the surrounding soil and encourages rapid root outgrowth. The depth of the hole should match the height of the root system. Avoid digging deeper than the root ball, as loosened soil will settle over time and cause the tree to sink. If the soil is heavy clay or drains poorly, plant the tree 2 to 4 inches above the native soil line to prevent water pooling.
Before backfilling, roughen the sides of the hole, especially in compacted soils, to prevent glazing and impeding root penetration. You can mix 10 to 20 percent compost with the native soil for backfill. Avoid adding fresh fertilizer directly into the planting hole, as this can damage new roots.
Setting the Tree at the Correct Depth
The primary factor in determining planting depth is the location of the root flare, also known as the root collar. The root flare is the point where the trunk visibly widens just before the first main roots branch out. This feature must be positioned at or slightly above the final soil grade.
For grafted cherry trees, the graft union—the bulge where the cherry variety was joined to the rootstock—will be visible higher up the trunk. While the graft union must remain above the soil line, the root flare is the true reference point for planting depth.
To account for expected soil settling after watering, position the root flare 1 to 2 inches above the surrounding grade. If the tree is container-grown, remove excess soil from the top of the root ball to expose the true root flare, as nurseries often bury it. For bare-root trees, spread the roots gently outward and downward, ensuring the flare is positioned correctly before adding backfill soil.
Immediate Post-Planting Care
Once the tree is positioned and the backfill soil is gently tamped, water thoroughly. A deep initial watering helps settle the soil and eliminate air pockets that could damage the roots. After this soaking, add more soil if the level has dropped significantly.
Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or shredded bark, is beneficial for moisture retention and weed suppression. The mulch layer should be 2 to 4 inches deep, but maintain a clear buffer zone of 4 to 6 inches immediately around the trunk. Mulch piled directly against the trunk can trap excessive moisture, encouraging fungal issues or bark decay.
Temporary staking should only be used if the tree is unstable or the planting site is windy. If staking is required, use flexible ties attached securely at about two-thirds of the tree’s height, ensuring the ties do not rub or damage the bark. Stakes should be removed after the first year to allow the trunk to develop strength.