Potatoes are a valuable crop, offering a high-yield harvest. Successful planting requires specific preparation and cultivation techniques beyond simply burying the seed pieces. Understanding the full growing process, from pre-sprouting to final hilling, sets the foundation for healthy growth and a productive season.
Preparing Seed Potatoes for Planting
Before planting, “chitting” is often used to give seed potatoes a head start. This involves placing the tubers in a bright, cool location (60°F to 70°F) for one to two weeks. Chitting encourages the development of short, sturdy sprouts from the eyes, leading to quicker emergence once planted and potentially an earlier harvest date.
Larger seed potatoes should be cut into pieces roughly two inches square, ensuring each piece contains at least one or two healthy eyes. Cutting allows a single tuber to yield multiple plants. After cutting, allow the pieces to dry for one to two days until a tough, protective callus forms over the cut surface. This callusing prevents the seed piece from rotting when placed into cool, moist soil.
Determining Initial Planting Depth and Spacing
Begin planting by digging a trench or hole approximately six to eight inches deep. This initial depth protects the developing roots and sprouts from temperature fluctuations. However, the seed potato is not immediately buried under the full depth of soil.
Place the prepared seed pieces cut-side down in the trench and cover them with only three to four inches of soil. Leaving the trench partially unfilled is a deliberate strategy that facilitates later maintenance. Space the seed pieces 10 to 12 inches apart within the row; closer spacing yields smaller “new” potatoes. If planting multiple rows, leave 30 to 36 inches between rows to allow room for growth and cultivation tasks.
The Essential Technique of Hilling
The shallow initial planting depth is compensated for by the ongoing practice of hilling. Hilling is the process of gradually mounding soil, compost, or straw around the base of the growing potato plant. This method is fundamental because the edible tubers form on underground stems, called stolons, that grow above the level of the original seed piece.
The primary reason for hilling is to keep the developing tubers completely shielded from sunlight. Exposure causes tubers to produce chlorophyll, turning the skin green, and synthesize solanine. Solanine is a natural toxin that makes the potatoes bitter and potentially unsafe for consumption, requiring constant coverage.
Hilling should begin once the plant shoots have emerged and reached a height of six to eight inches. Pull the surrounding soil or material up around the stems until only the top few inches of leaves are visible. Repeat this process every two to three weeks, or whenever the foliage reaches another six to eight inches in height.
Each subsequent hilling encourages the plant to produce more stolons along the buried stem, leading to a greater number of tubers and a higher overall yield. By the end of the season, the total mound of soil around the plant may be six to eight inches high, providing the deep, cool environment where potatoes thrive. Using a loose material like straw for later hilling can make the final harvest easier.