Epipremnum aureum, commonly known as Pothos, is a resilient and adaptable houseplant popular for indoor environments. Originating from the tropical forests of Southeast Asia, this vine is accustomed to consistently warm and humid conditions. While Pothos tolerates some neglect, it is sensitive to significant temperature fluctuations. Understanding the lower limits of its thermal tolerance is important, as exposure to cold is one of the quickest ways to cause distress and visible damage.
The Critical Temperature Limit
The Pothos thrives between 65°F and 85°F (18°C to 29°C), reflecting its tropical origins. Damage begins when temperatures consistently drop below 55°F (13°C). The absolute minimum threshold for survival is 50°F (10°C), where the plant’s metabolic processes slow down significantly.
Sustained exposure at or below 50°F (10°C) leads to chill injury, severely impairing cellular functions. Tropical plants cannot tolerate temperatures below 50°F to 54°F (10°C to 12°C) without suffering cell damage. Brief transport in cold weather or placement near a drafty window can expose the foliage to these damaging temperatures.
If the temperature drops toward freezing, water inside the plant’s cells forms ice crystals, causing the cell walls to rupture. This physical breakdown is permanent, resulting in tissue death. Even a cold draft from an exterior door or an air conditioning vent can cause localized stress to the leaves closest to the source.
Recognizing Symptoms of Cold Damage
Visual symptoms of cold exposure, often called cold shock, may not appear immediately but develop within 24 to 48 hours. One common sign is dark, water-soaked patches on the leaves that quickly turn black. This discoloration is tissue necrosis, indicating that the cells have died.
The leaves may wilt or droop, but unlike wilting from underwatering, the tissue feels soft or limp to the touch. In severe cases, the stems become mushy, which signals extensive cell rupture. This mushiness occurs when water leaks out from the burst cells.
Cold damage results in a sudden collapse, differentiating it from the gradual yellowing of nutrient issues or the crispy edges of severe underwatering. If the root ball was exposed to cold, the entire plant will appear distressed, and symptoms will be widespread. The damaged tissue will not recover its structure or color, making pruning necessary for the plant’s health.
Steps for Pothos Recovery
The first step is to move the Pothos immediately to a location with a stable temperature, ideally between 65°F and 75°F (18°C to 24°C). Avoid placing the stressed plant directly near a hot radiator or heat vent, as this can cause further shock or scorch the damaged foliage. Sudden temperature changes, whether hot or cold, increase stress on the plant.
Next, remove all foliage and stems that are mushy, blackened, or completely wilted using clean, sterilized scissors. Damaged tissue is highly susceptible to rot and fungal infection, which can spread to healthy parts of the plant. Cut back to a point on the vine where the tissue is firm and green.
After pruning, resist the urge to water the plant immediately. Cold-damaged roots cannot absorb moisture effectively, and overwatering will lead to root rot. Wait until the top inch or two of the soil is completely dry before watering sparingly. Do not apply fertilizer, as the plant’s slowed metabolism cannot process the nutrients, which can instead burn the roots.