Nazaré, a fishing town on the coast of Portugal, has become the global center for giant wave surfing. The Atlantic swells that break against Praia do Norte have earned the location legendary status among big-wave riders and spectators alike. Waves here regularly dwarf traditional surfing waves, creating liquid mountains that reach heights comparable to multi-story buildings. This extraordinary phenomenon has transformed the community into a high-stakes arena where formidable swells challenge the limits of human courage.
Documented Wave Heights and Records
The waves at Nazaré are consistently recorded as the biggest waves ever ridden. The current Guinness World Record for the largest wave surfed by a male was set here by German surfer Sebastian Steudtner on October 29, 2020, measuring 86 feet (26.21 meters). This height is taller than an eight-story building and surpassed the previous 80-foot mark set by Brazilian surfer Rodrigo Koxa in 2017.
The female record is also held at Nazaré by Brazilian surfer Maya Gabeira, who rode a wave measuring 73.5 feet (22.4 meters) in February 2020. These measurements are taken from the trough of the wave to its crest using photogrammetry. Scientists use the known size of the surfer, their board, and the jet ski as reference points within the image. The difficulty in precisely defining the wave’s trough and crest often leads to controversy and delays in official confirmation. New technologies, including drone-mounted altimeter sensors, are being developed to provide more objective, real-time data.
The Role of the Nazaré Canyon
The size of the waves at Praia do Norte is a direct consequence of the Nazaré Canyon, a unique underwater geological feature. This massive submarine valley is the largest in Europe, extending for about 140 miles (230 kilometers) and plunging to depths of over 16,000 feet (5,000 meters). The head of the canyon ends very close to the coast, with depths of 65 feet (20 meters) just yards from the beach.
The canyon acts like a massive funnel, channeling and accelerating the energy of incoming Atlantic swells. A swell traveling over the deep water of the canyon moves faster than the part of the wave simultaneously traveling over the shallower continental shelf on either side. This difference in speed causes the wave energy to bend, or refract, focusing it directly towards Praia do Norte.
The final amplification occurs as the accelerated wave energy exiting the deep canyon collides with the slower waves approaching over the continental shelf. This convergence creates wave superposition, where the crests of both sets of waves stack on top of each other. The resulting combined wave dramatically increases in height just before it breaks against the shoreline. This complex interaction of bathymetry, refraction, and superposition explains why the waves here can be two to three times larger than typical Atlantic swells.
The Logistics of Surfing Giant Waves
Riding a wave of Nazaré’s magnitude is physically impossible using traditional paddle-in methods. The waves move too fast, requiring the technique of “tow-in” surfing. A surfer is towed into the wave by a Personal Watercraft (PWC), typically a jet ski, at speeds necessary to match the swell.
The tow-in operation requires a highly coordinated team of at least two people: the surfer and a PWC operator. The PWC operator, often called the safety rider, is responsible for towing the surfer into the wave and performing the rescue if the surfer falls. Specialized equipment is mandatory, including reinforced surfboards designed for high speed and flotation vests that can inflate to help the surfer reach the surface after a wipeout.
For a “Code Red” day, when the biggest waves are expected, several factors must align. These include a large northwesterly or westerly swell, a long wave period (the time between successive wave crests), and favorable wind conditions. A strong offshore wind is preferred because it helps hold the wave face upright, creating a cleaner, more rideable surface. These factors combine to create the rare windows of opportunity for riding the world’s largest waves.