Capers are the unopened flower buds of the woody perennial shrub Capparis spinosa, a staple in Mediterranean cuisine for thousands of years. These tiny, pea-sized buds are prized for their intense, pungent flavor, which adds a salty, tangy depth to a variety of dishes. The unique quality of the caper results from the harsh environment in which the plant flourishes and the careful, labor-intensive methods used to cultivate and process it.
The Caper Plant and Ideal Growing Environment
The Capparis spinosa plant is a low-growing, sprawling shrub adapted to survive in arid and challenging landscapes. It is native across the circum-Mediterranean region, thriving in hot, sunny coastal areas with long, dry summers and mild winters. The plant develops a deep, extensive root system, allowing it to anchor itself and draw moisture from poor, rocky, or gravelly soil. Capers require full, direct sunlight for at least six hours a day and are intolerant of poorly draining soil. Once established, the plant needs minimal irrigation. These demanding, low-nutrient conditions concentrate the flavor compounds, contributing to the caper’s characteristic sharp taste.
Propagation and Seasonal Cultivation Techniques
Caper cultivation relies on vegetative propagation, primarily through stem cuttings, because seeds are difficult to germinate reliably. Dried seeds exhibit dormancy and often require a complex process of warm and cold stratification to achieve even a moderate germination rate. Cuttings are typically taken in the late winter or early spring and rooted in a well-drained medium before being transplanted to the field.
The annual maintenance cycle centers on aggressive pruning during the dormant winter months. Farmers cut the canes back significantly to encourage the production of new, vigorous growth in the spring. This heavy pruning maximizes the number of new shoots that bear the harvestable flower buds. Established caper bushes are drought-tolerant, but young plants require careful watering for the first two years until their root systems are fully developed.
The Manual Process of Harvesting and Grading
The defining feature of caper production is the highly labor-intensive, daily manual harvest that lasts from late spring through early autumn. Capers must be picked by hand before the tight bud swells and opens into the plant’s ephemeral flower. This picking must be done every day because the flower buds rapidly develop and open within a short window, often within 24 hours. Workers move through the fields each morning to pluck the tiny, dark green buds individually.
Immediately after picking, the capers are sorted and graded based on their diameter. The smallest buds, known as ‘nonpareil,’ measure under seven millimeters and are considered the finest and most delicate in texture, commanding the highest market price. Larger capers, such as ‘surfines’ (7–8 mm) and ‘capotes’ (9–11 mm), are less expensive but still desirable for their stronger flavor. If the bud is missed during the daily harvest and is allowed to flower, it will eventually develop into the larger, olive-shaped caper berry, which is harvested later and pickled as a separate product.
Curing: Transforming Capers for Culinary Use
The freshly harvested caper bud is not immediately edible because it contains a concentrated bitterness that must be removed. This bitterness is eliminated through curing, a chemical preservation process that develops the caper’s signature sharp, salty, and savory flavor profile.
The two main curing methods are dry-salting and brining, with the choice influencing the final texture and taste. Dry-salting involves layering the buds with coarse sea salt, which draws out moisture and results in a firmer, more intense product. Brining involves soaking the capers in a solution of salt, water, and often vinegar for an extended period. This pickling process mellows the bitterness and infuses the capers with familiar tangy acidity.