The ‘Ruby Falls Redbud’ (Cercis canadensis ‘Ruby Falls’) is a distinctive ornamental tree, known for its compact size, cascading branches, vibrant purple foliage, and eye-catching spring blooms. Its unique weeping silhouette makes it a popular choice for smaller gardens or as a focal point. Proper pruning contributes to the tree’s overall health, maintains its appealing weeping form, and ensures a strong structure.
Why and When to Prune Ruby Falls Redbud
Pruning a ‘Ruby Falls Redbud’ promotes the tree’s health and preserves its aesthetic appeal. Removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches prevents the spread of issues and directs energy toward healthy growth. Pruning also improves air circulation within the canopy, reducing the risk of fungal diseases. Maintaining the tree’s weeping form involves guiding its growth to enhance its natural cascade and prevent structural problems as it matures.
The optimal time for pruning a ‘Ruby Falls Redbud’ is late winter to early spring, before new growth begins. Pruning during this dormant period minimizes stress and reduces sap loss, which redbuds are prone to when actively growing. This timing also allows for a clear view of the tree’s structure without leaves, making it easier to identify branches for removal or shaping. While light shaping or dead wood removal can occur after blooming, major structural pruning is best reserved for dormancy to avoid cutting off flower buds and to facilitate wound healing.
How to Prune Ruby Falls Redbud
Effective pruning of a ‘Ruby Falls Redbud’ begins with the right tools: sharp bypass pruners for smaller branches, loppers for branches up to 1.5 inches in diameter, and a pruning saw for larger limbs. Sanitizing tools before and between cuts, especially when removing diseased wood, prevents pathogen spread.
Start by removing any dead, diseased, or damaged branches, cutting back to healthy wood. These branches are discolored, brittle, or show signs of decay. Next, address branches that are crossing or rubbing against each other, as this friction can create wounds that invite pests and diseases. Thinning the canopy by removing inward-growing branches improves air circulation and light penetration, benefiting the tree’s overall vigor.
To maintain the characteristic weeping form, selectively remove upward-growing branches or those that disrupt the cascading habit. The goal is to encourage a graceful, downward flow. Water sprouts (vigorous, upright shoots from main branches) and suckers (emerging from the base or roots) should be removed at their origin, as they divert energy. When making cuts, aim for clean cuts just outside the branch collar, the swollen area where a branch joins a larger limb or the trunk. This area contains specialized cells that facilitate proper wound closure.
For shaping, two main types of cuts are used: heading back and thinning. Heading back involves cutting a branch back to a bud or a smaller side branch, stimulating bushier growth or directing a branch’s path. Thinning cuts remove an entire branch back to its origin point, opening the canopy without stimulating dense regrowth. For a weeping redbud, thinning cuts are preferred for maintaining the elegant, open structure.
Post-Pruning Care and Tips
After pruning, clean and properly store your tools to maintain sharpness and prevent rust. Discard all pruned material, especially diseased branches, to avoid re-infection. The tree requires minimal special care immediately after pruning. Ensure adequate water, particularly if conditions are dry, to support its recovery. Avoid applying fertilizer directly after pruning, as this can stimulate excessive new growth vulnerable to environmental stresses.
When pruning, it is best to start conservatively, removing less than you think is needed. Step back frequently to assess the tree’s shape, as branches cannot be reattached once cut. Avoid removing more than one-third of the tree’s total canopy in a single pruning session, as this can cause significant stress. Common mistakes to avoid include making flush cuts that damage the branch collar, leaving stubs that can become entry points for disease, or pruning at the wrong time of year, which can lead to sap loss or reduced flowering.