Capers are the unopened flower buds of the caper bush, Capparis spinosa, a perennial plant primarily found in the Mediterranean region. These small, green buds are valued for their distinct tangy, salty, and slightly pungent flavor, making them a staple in various cuisines. While botanically flower buds, they are used culinarily like a vegetable, adding a unique briny note to many dishes.
Identifying and Preparing for Harvest
Harvesting capers begins with identifying the plant when its buds are at their optimal stage. The caper bush produces buds from May through August, requiring a hot and dry climate with full sun. The most desirable caper buds are small and firm, appearing dark, olive green. Smaller buds, such as ‘non-pareil’ (up to 7mm), are preferred for their more intense flavor and less fibrous texture.
As the buds mature, they increase in size, with larger classifications ranging up to 14mm or more. Harvesting should take place in the early morning hours on a dry day, before the heat causes the buds to begin unfurling. This timing helps ensure the buds remain tight and retain their characteristics. If buds are left unpicked, they will eventually open into white to pinkish flowers before developing into caper berries.
The Harvesting Process
The harvesting process involves careful handling to prevent damage to both the buds and the plant. Capers are traditionally picked by hand due to their small size and delicate nature. This ensures only the best buds are selected.
Small scissors or pruning shears can be used to snip the buds from the plant. Some harvesters find a clean fingernail sufficient for detaching the stems just below the bud. The technique involves gently grasping the stem and snipping it off, taking care not to harm the surrounding foliage or developing buds. This allows the caper bush to continue producing new buds throughout the warmer months.
Post-Harvest Treatment: Curing Capers
Freshly harvested capers are bitter and astringent, making them inedible without processing. Curing is necessary to develop their characteristic tangy flavor and ensure preservation. After harvesting, rinse capers thoroughly to remove dirt, then pat them dry. Some methods suggest drying them for a day in a shady, airy place to allow moisture loss.
Two common curing methods are salt-curing and brine-curing. For salt-curing, capers are layered with coarse, non-iodized sea salt in a dry glass jar. The salt draws out moisture and initiates fermentation, transforming the capers. This process takes two to three weeks, with occasional shaking to distribute the salt. Salt-cured capers develop a firmer texture and a concentrated flavor.
Alternatively, capers can be brine-cured using a solution of salt and water, often with vinegar. The capers are submerged in the cooled brine in a jar, then allowed to cure for three days to two weeks. Brine-curing results in a slightly different flavor profile and texture compared to salt-curing.
Storing and Using Cured Capers
Once capers have completed curing, proper storage maintains their quality and extends shelf life. Brine-packed capers should remain submerged in their liquid and can last up to a year in the refrigerator after opening. Unopened jars can be stored in a cool, dark pantry for up to two years.
Salt-packed capers require storage in an airtight container in a cool, dry place. They can last for six months to a year at room temperature, and up to two years if refrigerated. Before use, rinse salt-cured capers under cold water, and a brief soak may reduce saltiness. Capers are used in Mediterranean cuisine, adding a briny, tangy, and sometimes lemony flavor. They are incorporated into seafood dishes, pasta sauces like puttanesca, and chicken piccata. Capers also serve as a garnish for bagels with lox, or can be chopped and added to salads and dressings.