Gerbera daisies are popular ornamental plants known for their vividly colored blooms. While many gardeners treat them as seasonal annuals, the Gerbera daisy is botanically a tender perennial that can survive multiple seasons with proper care. Understanding the plant’s natural limits and applying specific winterizing techniques allows enthusiasts to preserve these plants through cold periods.
Gerbera Daisy Hardiness and Cold Limits
The Gerbera daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) is native to the Transvaal region of South Africa, which explains why it is reliably perennial only in United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Hardiness Zones 8 through 11. In these warmer regions, the plant can remain in the ground year-round with some protection.
Sustained exposure below 40°F is detrimental, as the plant does not tolerate prolonged cold. The crown—where the leaves meet the roots—is highly susceptible to freezing damage, which usually occurs when temperatures drop consistently below 25°F to 30°F. Cold, wet soil is also a significant threat, even above freezing, as it increases the risk of fungal infections and crown rot.
Outdoor Protection for Mild Climates
Gardeners in Zone 8, or mild pockets of Zone 7, may attempt to overwinter Gerbera daisies directly in the garden bed. This method relies on insulating the plant’s crown and maintaining excellent soil conditions. The primary defensive measure is applying a thick layer of mulch directly over the plant’s base.
Use a light, airy material like straw or pine needles, which is preferable to heavier mulches that compact and hold moisture. This protective layer should be four to six inches deep, completely covering the crown to shield it from cold exposure. Proper soil drainage is essential, as wet winter conditions combined with cold quickly lead to crown rot.
If extreme cold snaps are predicted, use temporary protection with a horticultural fleece or small cold frame. Remove these covers promptly once the freeze passes to prevent excessive moisture buildup around the foliage. This outdoor strategy carries inherent risk and is only recommended where deep, sustained freezes are rare or short-lived.
Preparing Gerbera Daisies for Dormancy Indoors
For those in colder climates (Zone 7 and below), the most reliable method is to lift and overwinter Gerbera daisies indoors in a dormant state. Dig up the plants before the first hard frost, which is a temperature drop sufficient to freeze the plant’s tissues. Transitioning the plant while it is still actively growing is easier than waiting until it has suffered frost damage.
After lifting the plant, carefully trim back the foliage, removing dead or damaged leaves to minimize disease risk indoors. This is also the time to inspect the roots and remaining leaves for common pests, such as spider mites or thrips. Treat any detected pests before moving the plant inside.
Transfer the plant into a container that allows for adequate drainage, ideally using a well-draining, gritty potting mix. The crown must be positioned slightly above the soil line, just as it was in the garden, to prevent water collection and rot at the base. Maintaining this crown exposure is essential for successful overwintering.
Dormancy Location and Care
The ideal indoor location is cool, maintaining a stable temperature between 40°F and 50°F, such as an unheated garage or cool cellar. This temperature range encourages the necessary period of dormancy without risking a freeze. The location does not require bright light, as the plant is resting, but ambient light is often beneficial.
During dormancy, drastically reduce watering from the active growing season’s schedule. The goal is only to prevent the root ball from completely desiccating. Water the soil lightly only when the top few inches are completely dry, which may be as infrequent as every three to four weeks. Overwatering in this cool, low-light environment is the most common cause of failure, leading directly to root and crown rot.
Transitioning Plants Back Outdoors in Spring
Begin reawakening the dormant Gerbera daisy in late winter or early spring, typically four to six weeks before the last expected frost date. Move the potted plant to a slightly warmer location that receives more light, such as a sunny window or heated sunroom. Gradually increasing the frequency of watering signals to the plant that the active growing season is resuming.
Once new growth appears, introduce a light application of a balanced, diluted fertilizer to support the plant’s renewed energy demands. Do not rush the move outdoors, as the plant needs a slow period of re-acclimatization. The process known as “hardening off” is necessary to prevent the leaves from scorching under direct sunlight and wind exposure.
Hardening off involves moving the plant outside to a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours a day, gradually increasing the time and light intensity over seven to ten days. After all danger of frost has passed and nighttime temperatures remain above 45°F, the Gerbera daisy can be safely planted back into the garden. When planting, ensure the crown remains slightly elevated above the surrounding soil level to maintain drainage and air circulation.