The appeal of gold-colored stainless steel jewelry lies in its affordability and durability. The stainless steel base does not tarnish, but the gold color on the surface is subject to wear and chemical degradation. Stainless steel is inherently resistant to the typical chemical reactions that cause discoloration. The longevity of the item depends almost entirely on the quality of the gold application, which is a separate layer applied to the base metal.
The Difference Between Tarnish and Plating Degradation
Tarnishing is a specific chemical process where a metal reacts with air, moisture, or sulfur compounds to form a dark, dull layer on its surface. This phenomenon is commonly seen on sterling silver and copper. Pure gold is highly resistant to this corrosion, and stainless steel, due to its chromium content, forms a protective, non-reactive oxide layer.
The discoloration seen on gold-colored stainless steel is not tarnish, but plating degradation or fading. This occurs when the thin gold layer is physically worn away or chemically compromised, exposing the silver-colored steel beneath. The process is one of erosion rather than a simple surface chemical reaction.
The method used to apply the gold color significantly influences the item’s lifespan. Traditional electroplating deposits a micro-thin layer of gold onto the base metal using an electric current. This layer is often less than one micron thick and is highly susceptible to friction and chemical attack.
A superior method is Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD), a high-tech vacuum coating process. PVD bonds the gold material to the steel at a molecular level, creating a much harder, more resilient surface. PVD coatings are significantly more scratch-resistant and maintain their color for years longer than standard electroplating because the bond is stronger and the resulting layer is denser. Understanding this distinction is fundamental, as the problem is the integrity of the color layer, not the base metal’s reaction to the environment.
Environmental and Chemical Factors Affecting Finish
Several common agents accelerate the breakdown of the gold finish, primarily through chemical reaction and physical abrasion. One of the most significant factors is exposure to bodily fluids, particularly sweat. Human sweat contains salts and mild acids, which chemically attack and dissolve the gold layer over time.
Friction is another major contributor to wear, especially for high-contact pieces like rings and bracelets. Consistent rubbing against skin, clothing, or hard surfaces causes physical abrasion that thins the plating layer. For electroplated pieces, this mechanical wear is often the primary cause of fading.
Chemical exposure from everyday products drastically compromises the finish. Substances like chlorine found in swimming pools are highly corrosive and can quickly break down the gold layer, leading to discoloration or flaking. Household cleaning products containing harsh detergents or ammonia have a similar damaging effect.
Even routine personal care items pose a threat to the plating’s integrity. Applying perfumes, hairsprays, or body lotions directly onto the jewelry introduces chemicals that can react with the gold or, more commonly, the metal beneath the gold layer. For maximum longevity, put on jewelry only after all cosmetics and toiletries have fully dried or been absorbed by the skin.
Maintenance Practices to Ensure Longevity
Protecting the gold finish requires consistent, simple preventative care, focusing on minimizing chemical and abrasive exposure. The easiest measure is to remove the jewelry before engaging in activities that involve water or sweat. This includes showering, swimming, exercising, or performing household chores like dishwashing.
When cleaning the jewelry, use only mild soap, such as a gentle liquid hand soap, mixed with lukewarm water. Scrubbing should be avoided. Instead, the piece should be gently wiped with a soft, lint-free cloth or a microfiber towel. Harsh jewelry cleaners, abrasive materials, or chemical dips can strip the thin gold layer and should never be used on plated items.
Proper storage is important for maintaining the finish’s quality. Jewelry should be stored in a dry environment, away from humidity, which can accelerate degradation. Keeping each piece separated in a soft pouch or a compartmented jewelry box prevents pieces from rubbing against each other, which reduces physical abrasion and scratching of the gold surface.
Establishing a routine of quickly wiping the jewelry with a soft cloth after each wear helps remove accumulated oils, sweat, and residue from lotions or perfumes. This simple action prevents corrosive substances from remaining on the surface for extended periods, significantly extending the time before the gold color begins to fade.